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Routes in Zorro Wall

Bee Sting-Be Strong S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Clown Shoes S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Face O Meter S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Face is Great - Choss is Off S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Geronimo S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Got Choss S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Jenga S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Jengaistic S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Liken' the Lichen S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pinch Six S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Red Skin S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Zorro S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Zorro Corner (Son of Zorro) S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Sport
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,784 total, 26/month
Shared By: MojoMonkey on Mar 20, 2009
Admins: Justin Johnsen, Kyle Stapp

You & This Route


30 Opinions

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Description

Oral tradition says this was the first route put up at Birdsboro. Walking along the trail, you see it jump out as the cleanest looking face climb in the quarry.

I started to the lower left of the face in a corner and then moved right to the face around to get to the first bolt. From there I stuck to the face, even though the arete or cracks near it were within reach. Instead I stuck to the thin, horizontal cracks/features on the mostly blank face.

Location

Zorro Face

Protection

3 bolts to anchor.
ColeT Musial
Cincinnati, OH
 
ColeT Musial   Cincinnati, OH
 
I would agree with 11b the way I did it, not exactly how that was though Feb 16, 2015
It depends on how much face (harder) vs arete (easier) climbing you do. The person that entered it stayed on the arete to the second bolt and then climbed the face and rated it 11a. Someone else called it 11b (the only person rating it so he is consensus by himself). He provided no description of the line he followed.

Never did hear which way is supposed to be 12a - face only? I haven't been back in the years since my last comment so couldn't even guess now. Sep 23, 2014
Matt Rhodin
Denver, CO
Matt Rhodin   Denver, CO
5.12a? Just saw on rockclimbing.com it's only a 5.11b... can anyone shed some light on this? Sep 23, 2014
Jr Peterson
Birdsboro
 
Jr Peterson   Birdsboro
 
I always heard that faint and fracture where the first climbs put up back there. May 2, 2013
Perrin
Boulder, CO
Perrin   Boulder, CO
Most people I've talked to start out on the left, on the thin ledge that diagonals down from left to right. I will also agree that the arete is obviously off. Great face climb. Oct 29, 2010
I opt to start from the bottom of the face proper, which entails a tricky and long reach to a left hand slot that slopes away off of a decent but balancy left foot on the corner. I am 6'1" with a +2 ape index, which makes that possible for me. I don't think I have the skill to make that move without the benefeit of my reach. The remainder of the route is a little reachy to thin crimps/pods for both hands and feet on a slab a few degrees below vertical. Sep 27, 2009
Anyone want to describe this line? I started to the lower left of the face in a corner and then moved right to the face around to get to the first bolt. From there I stuck to the face, even though the arete or cracks near it were within reach. Instead I stuck to the thin, horizontal cracks/features on the mostly blank face. Apr 21, 2009