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Birdsboro Quarry

Pennsylvania > Southeastern Lowlands

Description

The Bird's sub areas from LEFT TO RIGHT:

Main Wall
Orange Sunshine Wall
Neophyte's Wall
Zorro Wall
Mid Wall
Big Wall
Lebowski Wall
West Wall
Sun Wall (Long Slabs)
10. Grunge Wall
The Wall of Immortals
Ground Up Wall
Reservoir Wall
Beer Wall (Reservoir Level)

Birdsboro has the most sport climbs of any open area in eastern Pennsylvania, on variable quality diabase rock. The quarry's website is back in action for the latest information, including the current topo.

It's a former quarry located on the north side of Trap Rock in Birdsboro, PA. Use cable bridges to cross Hay Creek twice, and follow the farting climber sign to the climbing areas. There are dozens of bolted sport routes ranging from 5.6 to 5.14. Climbs are located on the upper level and at the resevoir level. There are also multi pitch slab climbs located across the reservoir.

The first climbs here were put up by Bob Perna and friends, by these days it's being developed by Ted Coffelt and company. You can contribute to the bolt fund in a signed drop pipe where the trail reaches the quarry.

A single 60m rope does fine for most climbs here. Only the long slabs on the far wall are two real pitches, you need to do two raps if you do both.

Rock type: Diabase. Since the climbing walls are machine cut, there's more loose rock than in most natural climbing areas.

The Birdsboro Climbing website is the best place to learn about climbing here, and contact the crag's stewards and other Birdsboro climbers. It also has a link to Birdsboro climbing's Facebook group.

The quarry lies is in Birdsboro township. Given their good relationship with the climbing community, it's nice to reciprocate and patronize local merchants on your way in and out of the crag.

The local police occasionally use the quarry as a gun range.

Guidelines

Birdsboro Access
The Birdsboro Climbing Area is public land owned by Robeson Township and managed by the Birdsboro Municipal Authority. Access and recreational usage is granted to us as a privilege not a right. As the land managers all users are required to observe all posted signs and regulations. The lower Water Reservoir is part of the Borough’s drinking water supply. No fishing or swimming is allowed. No deep water soloing is permitted. No fire rings are permitted. Please obey these rules.

•Remember, Climbers are Guests Here! If the Police or Birdsboro employees come out to use the shooting range we must vacate areas 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, and 13 until they are done.


•Top rope manners: Use quickdraws in top anchors.
•Do not rappel or set top ropes above climbs off webbing anchors.
•Do not remove fixed protection on climbs.
•Do not tamper with or modify existing routes.
•Ask the local climbers before establishing new routes.
•Top Roping routes should be done using quickdraws, not running
directly through anchors.
•Lead climbers have the “right of way” when top rope lines are used for groups.
Please respect each other and allow them to “play through” “on lead”.
•Pets: Dogs are welcome provided they don’t bark obsessively,
don’t growl/bark at climbers or other dogs.
•Music: respect other climbers – ask before you blast.
•Trash: Please carry it all out – organic waste, cigarette butts.
•Camping is allowed for events and by request at other times.
Please contact us for more information and permissions about camping.
•No Fire Rings are allowed. This is a Wilderness Area restriction.
•Swimming and fishing is prohibited in the reservoirs.

Getting There

Take 422 west, take a left on 345 into Birdsboro. Ignore the "road closed" signs and go all the way to the closure into Hay Creek Park. Cross the creek twice, using the cables (or walk through the creek). Please do NOT trespass on to Haines and Kibblehouse property.

Turn right when the road forks after the second creek crossing. From here you can access the Main Wall and the upper climbing area area. Take the Big Wall Stair/Trail to access the lower reservoir climbing area.

Detailed directions here: http://www.birdsboroclimbing.com/directions/

Access

The local Access Fund org is the Birdsboro Area Climbing Association.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Chris Acosta climbing Magnanimous
[Hide Photo] Chris Acosta climbing Magnanimous
This was the latest route map in August 2012.  Updates can be found at:<br>
http://www.readingrocks.com/Downloads/birdsboro.pdf
[Hide Photo] This was the latest route map in August 2012. Updates can be found at: http://www.readingrocks.com/Downloads/birdsboro.pdf
Matt clipping high on Jenga.
[Hide Photo] Matt clipping high on Jenga.
JAG fires the crux throw
[Hide Photo] JAG fires the crux throw
View of the Wall of the Immortals and the Ground up wall.
[Hide Photo] View of the Wall of the Immortals and the Ground up wall.
The Annalisa on Twisted Sister
[Hide Photo] The Annalisa on Twisted Sister
Adam making the move on his flash of Faint<br>
<br>
<br>
[Hide Photo] Adam making the move on his flash of Faint
Ignore my butt. the left side was broken but has been in various states of climbable shape at other times.
[Hide Photo] Ignore my butt. the left side was broken but has been in various states of climbable shape at other times.
Virgin Suicides
[Hide Photo] Virgin Suicides
Updated as of 7/30/15, from the Birdsboro Climbing website.
[Hide Photo] Updated as of 7/30/15, from the Birdsboro Climbing website.
Line down
[Hide Photo] Line down
Birdsboro
[Hide Photo] Birdsboro

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Paul Shultz
Hudson, Ma
[Hide Comment] Alright climbing. bolts are in good shape are replaced when needed. Wear a helmet! this is an old quarry and I've seen my climbing partner shift 2 coffee table size flakes no problem. Giant wall gets great sun and on a 40 degree sunny day can be quite enjoyable to climb. Does have some ice in winter, though top roping is sketchy to rig. Lower slabs have a tendency to be wet but offer some fun climbs.

BEWARE! Some rock is reglued!

Definitely not best climbing spot in the world, but one of the better ones in Eastern PA! Feb 28, 2009
rdlennon
New Hampshire
[Hide Comment] Sweet, thanks. I've been looking for info on individual routes here for years. If you've climbed/seen them, would you mind listing distinguishing features, i.e. crack, corner, etc. Mar 20, 2009
[Hide Comment] Luke, if you're interested in creating New Areas for each section at Birdsboro, you can go ahead and make them and fill them with routes.

I thought about creating new areas but decided against it. Birdsboro is kinda small and the idea of creating new areas for each section of the wall, then adding routes didn't seem to make much sense. More importantly, I wanted to be able to search for routes by grade throughout birdsboro using the "Routes best for me" feature. I put the name of the wall each climb is on in the "Location". Mar 25, 2009
gblauer Blauer
Wayne, PA
[Hide Comment] Scott M...if you are the Scott that I think you are, please speak up. You know who is doing all the bolting! Sep 5, 2009
[Hide Comment] A website has been created for birdsboro. It is a static site at this time. It presently only has a link to info. on the recently passed annual clean and climb. The site is birdsbororockclimbing.org As I understand it, further site development is forthcoming. Sep 27, 2009
gblauer Blauer
Wayne, PA
[Hide Comment] 4th Annual Birdsboro CLimb and Clean

All, please join us for the climb and clean at Birdsboro quarry on September 25th/26th. Camping starts on Friday night. We will be cleaning and climbing all day on Saturday. Followed by a community dinner with entertainment and raffle (lots of great gear) on Saturday night at the Pavillion in Rustic Park. Sunday we will resume climbing and finish up any project work.

For those of you with non climbing friends, we will have equipment, ropes, belayers and we will set up some TRs.

All proceeds from the dinner and raffle go to cliff maintenance. Sep 12, 2010
JEVanHorn
Geneva, NY
[Hide Comment] I had a great time over the weekend at the quarry. Thank you to everyone that was very kind and helpful in pointing out good routes to do. I am definitely going to be investing in a helmet for the next time i go there. Oct 25, 2010
[Hide Comment] I climbed at Birdsboro for the first time last weekend. While there, I onsighted Crackalicious- apparently a new 5.13. It was easily the best climb I did that day, but definitely not 5.13. The hardest I've onsighted before was 5.12a at softly rated areas (Red Rock, Potrero). I'm guessing more like an Indian Creek 5.11. Oct 27, 2010
[Hide Comment] Hi my names Chris and I bolted Crackalicious. I would like to say awesome job to Ktlusci for being the first person to onsight Crackalicious. However I beleive the grade to be a 12b to 12c, especially if you consider all the grades of other climbs at the bird. Def. not a 13 as listed.One other person redpointed it before you, and I have the first accent on Trad gear. But Im very impressed that you got the onsight . Hope to see you out at the bird sometime in the spring. As for now cant wait for ice!!! Dec 4, 2010
Tyrel Fuller
Denver, CO
[Hide Comment] It is hard to compare an IC corner to Crackalicious. IC routes are more about overall fitness and sustained low-intensity movement, while Crackalicious has a definite crux move. I think that once/if Crackalicious receives more traffic its grade will fall into the 5.12 range. Jun 3, 2011
gblauer Blauer
Wayne, PA
[Hide Comment] 5th Annual Birdsboro Climb and Clean

All, please join us for the climb and clean at Birdsboro quarry on September 16th-18th. Camping starts on Friday the 16th. We will be cleaning and climbing all day on Saturday. Followed by a community dinner with entertainment and raffle (lots of great gear) on Saturday night at the Pavillion in Rustic Park. Sunday we will resume climbing and finish up any project work.

For those of you with non climbing friends, we will have equipment, ropes, belayers and we will set up some TRs.

All proceeds from the dinner and raffle go to cliff maintenance. Aug 23, 2011
Anthony Nguyen
Philadelphia
[Hide Comment] I just heard that there was an accident at Birdsboro 5 weeks ago where a climber had a bolt blow, decked and broke her back. Does anyone have information on this accident or know where I can find some details?

A lot of my gym friends climb here and I am always worried for them. Nov 15, 2011
[Hide Comment] I think the accident you heard of was not a broken bolt, but a broken carabiner. The bolt end carabiner of the draw broke and looked like the nose-hooked failures shown here. Nov 15, 2011
Anthony Nguyen
Philadelphia
[Hide Comment] Thanks Mojo, Justin.

I confirmed that it was a nose-hook failure.

Always wear a helmet! Nov 18, 2011
Peter Borden
nyc, ny
[Hide Comment] What's the story with routes in the bigwall section? Like, what length rope would I need to do the climbs in 1 pitch? Also, what's the deal with the gun range? Apr 9, 2012
Larry S
Easton, PA
[Hide Comment] Pete - the local police occasionally use the quarry as a gun range. A 60m rope will do fine with the lower offs on the big wall - It's not really two pitches... it's just got first anchors and second anchors. The long slabs are two real pitches, you need to do two raps if you do both. Apr 10, 2012
Gaz Leah
Denver, CO
[Hide Comment] Hey Guys,

I'm looking to head up to the quarry from NYC this friday and am looking to stay for the weekend. Is camping allowed at the quarry or nearby? if not can someone recommend somewhere to stay for 5 people, preferably camping.

Cheers

Gaz Apr 10, 2013
Larry S
Easton, PA
[Hide Comment] Gaz - See here. mountainproject.com/v/birds… Apr 10, 2013
Gaz Leah
Denver, CO
[Hide Comment] Thanks Larry,

Is there a local hang out for climbers here? A bar they like etc so we can catch up with some locals. I'd love to talk to them about the quarry Apr 11, 2013
Gaz Leah
Denver, CO
[Hide Comment] I visited Birdsboro last weekend and I don't really know what to say. did 2 of the best 5.12's i've ever climbed! Admittedly there's a bit of loose rock but the majority is bomber. The scenic views and the awesome locals make this place a MUST GO destination. especially if venturing out from NYC.

To the birdsboro bolters, top job lads! Apr 18, 2013
gblauer Blauer
Wayne, PA
[Hide Comment] Thanks to all who attended our 7th Annual Climb and Clean

We had a great event this year. Thanks to all of you who helped with projects, joined us for dinner and purchased raffle tickets and memberships.

See you next year and visit our new website:
birdsboroclimbing.com Sep 22, 2013
Kurt G.
Reading, PA
[Hide Comment] Great news, the first cable bridge coming into the park has been fixed with a new pole courtesy of windstream communications and some helpful folks from the Birdsboro climbing group. the tree has been pulled out and a telephone pole put up in its place to fix how saggy and potentially dangerous the top cable was. Aug 11, 2014
gblauer Blauer
Wayne, PA
[Hide Comment] Bold 8th Annual Climb and Clean

Join us September 27th and 28th for our annual Climb and Clean event. Volunteers can do some climbing and cleaning. We have a list of projects that we would like to complete.

Dinner with raffle (all proceeds go directly to crag maintenance) will be held at 6PM Saturday night at Rustic Park (down by the parking lot).

Tee Shirts, raffle tickets and dinner coupons will be available for sale up at the crag on Saturday. Will continue to sell Tee shirts on Sunday.

Come out and support our local sport climbing crag.

Camping is permitted in designated areas for this event.
PM me if you have any questions. Aug 26, 2014
[Hide Comment] WEATHER and PRO

Headed to the quarry 6/24/16. Have a couple of questions...

1.) How hot do y'all think is too hot for the quarry? I notice that mountain project shows a dip in popularity in July and August but no one talks about when is too hot. Might hit the 90s next week, but looks like it should dip back down to the 80s for our climbing day.

2.) Since everything is sport, planning on showing up with just quick draws, and no trad rack. Is that a mistake? Me and my buddy both usually 2nd, but since everything is sport at the quarry we're goanna go out just the 2 of us this time. Could make a stop at REI for some extra pro if yall think we'll have more fun that way. (I'll read all the route beta before we show up/but wanted to pitch this question to the group in the meantime. - good info for the main thread.)

Thanks in advance! Jun 17, 2016
B. L.
New York, NY
[Hide Comment] So much rock is loose. I know it's tempting to make the best of what's around but if you get in a accident with falling rock, you'll quickly change your mind if you're still able. Definitely avoid the extra loose Wall of the immortals. Not trying to hate here.. the locals are awesome.. just commenting on the quality of the rock. Oct 4, 2017
[Hide Comment] Saw that Ted Coffelt just put out a new guidebook for Birdsboro, saw that they are for sale at the Doylestown Rock Gym but does anyone know if these are for sale anywhere online? I'd love to buy one. Oct 18, 2017
[Hide Comment] Pretty big rock fall in the Big Wall area. Completely covered the dirt path. Not sure of when it happened but regardless be careful navigating in that area. Nov 24, 2017
Nick Haha
Baltimore, md
[Hide Comment] There’s another parking lot that’s about the same distance hike in. It brings you in by where the 2nd wire bridge kinda would of. Google old 82 & parking area and follow those directions to park along the street when it ends. The path is concrete with a lot of art along the way. Oct 20, 2018
[Hide Comment] The Birdsboro crew have replaced the missing cable crossing nearest to the climbing (not yet at Rustic Pavillion parking). It is a single cable this time, intended as a tyrolean so you'll need to bring a pulley or other suitable method to attach to the cable. Don't destroy your aluminum carabiners sliding across it (or a sling)! Nov 27, 2018