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Birdsboro Quarry

Pennsylvania > Southeastern Lowlands

Description

Here's an overview of the Bird from 2015: "The best choss you've ever had break off in your hand" - Lisa Hathaway, pro climber, talking about somewhere else.

Birdsboro has the most sport climbs of any open area in eastern Pennsylvania, on variable quality diabase rock. It’s a former quarry located on the north side of Trap Rock in Birdsboro, PA. There are dozens of bolted sport routes ranging from 5.6 to 5.14. There are also multi pitch slab climbs located across the reservoir. The first climbs here were put up by Bob Perna and friends and these days it's being developed by Ted Coffelt and company. Ted Coffelt has produced Birdsboro Routes, a digital guidebook with Gunks Apps, which is the latest source of complete information. You can contribute to the bolt fund in a signed drop pipe where the trail reaches the quarry.

A single 60m rope does fine for most climbs here. Only the long slabs on the far wall are two real pitches, you need to do two raps if you do both. Since the climbing walls are machine cut, there's more loose rock than in most natural climbing areas. The Birdsboro Climbing website is the best place to learn about climbing here and contact the crag's stewards and other Birdsboro climbers. It also has a link to Birdsboro climbing's Facebook group. The quarry lies in Birdsboro township. Given their good relationship with the climbing community, it's nice to reciprocate and patronize local merchants on your way in and out of the crag.

Guidelines for Birdsboro Access:

The Birdsboro Climbing Area is public land owned by Robeson Township and managed by the Birdsboro Municipal Authority. Access and recreational usage are granted to us as a privilege not a right. As the land managers all users are required to observe all posted signs and regulations. Please obey these rules. Remember, climbers are guests here!

  • If the Police or Birdsboro employees come out to use the shooting range, we must vacate areas 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, and 13 until they are done. 
  • Climbing etiquette: Build anchors using bolts – top rope or lower through your own quickdraws. Do not rappel or set top ropes above climbs off webbing anchors. Do not remove fixed protection on climbs. Do not tamper with or modify existing routes. Ask the local climbers before establishing new routes. Lead climbers have the "right of way" when top rope lines are used for groups. 
  • Pets: Dogs are welcome provided they don't bark obsessively and don't growl/bark at climbers or other dogs. 
  • Music: respect other climbers - ask before you blast. 
  • Trash: Please carry it all out: organic waste, cigarette butts. especially. 
  • Camping is allowed for events and by request at other times. Please contact us for more information and permissions about camping. No fire rings are allowed. This is a Wilderness Area restriction.
  • The lower water reservoir is part of the Borough's drinking water supply. No deep-water soloing is permitted. Swimming and fishing are prohibited in the reservoirs. 

Get the latest info from the local climbing club here: https://www.birdsboroclimbing.com/

Getting There

**** CABLE BRIDGES ARE DOWN, ACCESS THROUGH HAYCREEK ROAD INSTEAD: 'Alt parking spot' below **** 

Take 422 west, take a left on 345 into Birdsboro. Ignore the "road closed" signs and go all the way to the closure into Hay Creek Park. Cross the creek twice, using the cables (or walk through the creek). Please do NOT trespass on to Haines and Kibblehouse property. Turn right when the road forks after the second creek crossing. From here you can access the Main Wall and the upper climbing area area. Take the Big Wall Stair/Trail to access the lower reservoir climbing area. Detailed directions here: birdsboroclimbing.com/direc…

alt parking spot:If you park at the other parking spot please do not block the gates. those gates are the only way for emergency services to access the quarry.

Access

The local Access Fund org is the Birdsboro Area Climbing Association.

Bat Conservation | How You Can Help

See a Bat on a Route, Give Us a Shout! 

Hey climbers, the Eastern Pennsylvania Alliance of Climbers (EPAC) is working with Rob Schorr at Colorado State University to help him spread the word about his bat research. Here’s a message from him about this important work and how, we as climbers, can help.

"Climbers for Bat Conservation is working with climbers to understand bat ecology and why bats choose certain cracks and flakes. We’re a collaboration between climbers, bat biologists, and land managers to understand where bats roost and where large populations may reside. We are interested in finding bats because of a new disease called white-nose syndrome (whitenosesyndrome.org) which has killed millions of bats in North America. This collaboration has identified bat roosts throughout the U.S., and as far away as Norway and Bulgaria. CBC was developed by biologists who climb and they are advocates for climbing access and bat conservation.

So, if you see bats while climbing, please let us know by emailing us at climbersforbats@colostate.edu, or visiting our website to learn more. climbersforbats.colostate.edu."

Thank You!
Rob Schorr

Zoologist, Colorado Natural Heritage Program (warnercnr.colostate.edu/rschorr/)
Director, Climbers for Bat Conservation
Robert.schorr@colostate.edu

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Welcome to Birdsboro Rock Quarry.
[Hide Photo] Welcome to Birdsboro Rock Quarry.
Chris Acosta climbing Magnanimous
[Hide Photo] Chris Acosta climbing Magnanimous
JAG fires the crux throw
[Hide Photo] JAG fires the crux throw
First of two wire bridges on the approach trail.
[Hide Photo] First of two wire bridges on the approach trail.
Updated as of 7/30/15, from the Birdsboro Climbing website.
[Hide Photo] Updated as of 7/30/15, from the Birdsboro Climbing website.
Matt clipping high on Jenga.
[Hide Photo] Matt clipping high on Jenga.
Virgin Suicides
[Hide Photo] Virgin Suicides
View of the Wall of the Immortals and the Ground up wall.
[Hide Photo] View of the Wall of the Immortals and the Ground up wall.
The Annalisa on Twisted Sister
[Hide Photo] The Annalisa on Twisted Sister
Birdsboro
[Hide Photo] Birdsboro
Ignore my butt. the left side was broken but has been in various states of climbable shape at other times.
[Hide Photo] Ignore my butt. the left side was broken but has been in various states of climbable shape at other times.
Line down
[Hide Photo] Line down

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Paul Shultz
Hudson, Ma
[Hide Comment] Alright climbing. bolts are in good shape are replaced when needed. Wear a helmet! this is an old quarry and I've seen my climbing partner shift 2 coffee table size flakes no problem. Giant wall gets great sun and on a 40 degree sunny day can be quite enjoyable to climb. Does have some ice in winter, though top roping is sketchy to rig. Lower slabs have a tendency to be wet but offer some fun climbs.

BEWARE! Some rock is reglued!

Definitely not best climbing spot in the world, but one of the better ones in Eastern PA! Feb 28, 2009
rdlennon
New Hampshire
[Hide Comment] Sweet, thanks. I've been looking for info on individual routes here for years. If you've climbed/seen them, would you mind listing distinguishing features, i.e. crack, corner, etc. Mar 20, 2009
Aaron Moskowitz
Philadelphia
[Hide Comment] Luke, if you're interested in creating New Areas for each section at Birdsboro, you can go ahead and make them and fill them with routes.

I thought about creating new areas but decided against it. Birdsboro is kinda small and the idea of creating new areas for each section of the wall, then adding routes didn't seem to make much sense. More importantly, I wanted to be able to search for routes by grade throughout birdsboro using the "Routes best for me" feature. I put the name of the wall each climb is on in the "Location". Mar 25, 2009
Gail Blauer
Gardiner, NY
[Hide Comment] Scott M...if you are the Scott that I think you are, please speak up. You know who is doing all the bolting! Sep 5, 2009
[Hide Comment] A website has been created for birdsboro. It is a static site at this time. It presently only has a link to info. on the recently passed annual clean and climb. The site is birdsbororockclimbing.org As I understand it, further site development is forthcoming. Sep 27, 2009
Gail Blauer
Gardiner, NY
[Hide Comment] 4th Annual Birdsboro CLimb and Clean

All, please join us for the climb and clean at Birdsboro quarry on September 25th/26th. Camping starts on Friday night. We will be cleaning and climbing all day on Saturday. Followed by a community dinner with entertainment and raffle (lots of great gear) on Saturday night at the Pavillion in Rustic Park. Sunday we will resume climbing and finish up any project work.

For those of you with non climbing friends, we will have equipment, ropes, belayers and we will set up some TRs.

All proceeds from the dinner and raffle go to cliff maintenance. Sep 12, 2010
JEVanHorn
Geneva, NY
[Hide Comment] I had a great time over the weekend at the quarry. Thank you to everyone that was very kind and helpful in pointing out good routes to do. I am definitely going to be investing in a helmet for the next time i go there. Oct 25, 2010
[Hide Comment] I climbed at Birdsboro for the first time last weekend. While there, I onsighted Crackalicious- apparently a new 5.13. It was easily the best climb I did that day, but definitely not 5.13. The hardest I've onsighted before was 5.12a at softly rated areas (Red Rock, Potrero). I'm guessing more like an Indian Creek 5.11. Oct 27, 2010
Chris Acosta
Stowe, PA
[Hide Comment] Hi my names Chris and I bolted Crackalicious. I would like to say awesome job to Ktlusci for being the first person to onsight Crackalicious. However I beleive the grade to be a 12b to 12c, especially if you consider all the grades of other climbs at the bird. Def. not a 13 as listed.One other person redpointed it before you, and I have the first accent on Trad gear. But Im very impressed that you got the onsight . Hope to see you out at the bird sometime in the spring. As for now cant wait for ice!!! Dec 4, 2010
Tyrel Fuller
Denver, CO
[Hide Comment] It is hard to compare an IC corner to Crackalicious. IC routes are more about overall fitness and sustained low-intensity movement, while Crackalicious has a definite crux move. I think that once/if Crackalicious receives more traffic its grade will fall into the 5.12 range. Jun 3, 2011
Gail Blauer
Gardiner, NY
[Hide Comment] 5th Annual Birdsboro Climb and Clean

All, please join us for the climb and clean at Birdsboro quarry on September 16th-18th. Camping starts on Friday the 16th. We will be cleaning and climbing all day on Saturday. Followed by a community dinner with entertainment and raffle (lots of great gear) on Saturday night at the Pavillion in Rustic Park. Sunday we will resume climbing and finish up any project work.

For those of you with non climbing friends, we will have equipment, ropes, belayers and we will set up some TRs.

All proceeds from the dinner and raffle go to cliff maintenance. Aug 23, 2011
Anthony Nguyen
Philadelphia
[Hide Comment] I just heard that there was an accident at Birdsboro 5 weeks ago where a climber had a bolt blow, decked and broke her back. Does anyone have information on this accident or know where I can find some details?

A lot of my gym friends climb here and I am always worried for them. Nov 15, 2011
[Hide Comment] I think the accident you heard of was not a broken bolt, but a broken carabiner. The bolt end carabiner of the draw broke and looked like the nose-hooked failures shown here. blackdiamondequipment.com/e… Nov 15, 2011
Anthony Nguyen
Philadelphia
[Hide Comment] Thanks Mojo, Justin.

I confirmed that it was a nose-hook failure.

Always wear a helmet! Nov 18, 2011
Peter Borden
nyc, ny
[Hide Comment] What's the story with routes in the bigwall section? Like, what length rope would I need to do the climbs in 1 pitch? Also, what's the deal with the gun range? Apr 9, 2012
Larry S
Easton, PA
[Hide Comment] Pete - the local police occasionally use the quarry as a gun range. A 60m rope will do fine with the lower offs on the big wall - It's not really two pitches... it's just got first anchors and second anchors. The long slabs are two real pitches, you need to do two raps if you do both. Apr 10, 2012
Gareth Leah
Chester, Cheshire
[Hide Comment] Hey Guys,

I'm looking to head up to the quarry from NYC this friday and am looking to stay for the weekend. Is camping allowed at the quarry or nearby? if not can someone recommend somewhere to stay for 5 people, preferably camping.

Cheers

Gaz Apr 10, 2013
Larry S
Easton, PA
[Hide Comment] Gaz - See here. mountainproject.com/v/birds… Apr 10, 2013
Gareth Leah
Chester, Cheshire
[Hide Comment] Thanks Larry,

Is there a local hang out for climbers here? A bar they like etc so we can catch up with some locals. I'd love to talk to them about the quarry Apr 11, 2013
Gareth Leah
Chester, Cheshire
[Hide Comment] I visited Birdsboro last weekend and I don't really know what to say. did 2 of the best 5.12's i've ever climbed! Admittedly there's a bit of loose rock but the majority is bomber. The scenic views and the awesome locals make this place a MUST GO destination. especially if venturing out from NYC.

To the birdsboro bolters, top job lads! Apr 18, 2013
Gail Blauer
Gardiner, NY
[Hide Comment] Thanks to all who attended our 7th Annual Climb and Clean

We had a great event this year. Thanks to all of you who helped with projects, joined us for dinner and purchased raffle tickets and memberships.

See you next year and visit our new website:
birdsboroclimbing.com Sep 22, 2013
Kurt G
Monticello, UT
[Hide Comment] Great news, the first cable bridge coming into the park has been fixed with a new pole courtesy of windstream communications and some helpful folks from the Birdsboro climbing group. the tree has been pulled out and a telephone pole put up in its place to fix how saggy and potentially dangerous the top cable was. Aug 11, 2014
Gail Blauer
Gardiner, NY
[Hide Comment] Bold 8th Annual Climb and Clean

Join us September 27th and 28th for our annual Climb and Clean event. Volunteers can do some climbing and cleaning. We have a list of projects that we would like to complete.

Dinner with raffle (all proceeds go directly to crag maintenance) will be held at 6PM Saturday night at Rustic Park (down by the parking lot).

Tee Shirts, raffle tickets and dinner coupons will be available for sale up at the crag on Saturday. Will continue to sell Tee shirts on Sunday.

Come out and support our local sport climbing crag.

Camping is permitted in designated areas for this event.
PM me if you have any questions. Aug 26, 2014
Chris Hale-Smith
Seattle, WA
[Hide Comment] WEATHER and PRO

Headed to the quarry 6/24/16. Have a couple of questions...

1.) How hot do y'all think is too hot for the quarry? I notice that mountain project shows a dip in popularity in July and August but no one talks about when is too hot. Might hit the 90s next week, but looks like it should dip back down to the 80s for our climbing day.

2.) Since everything is sport, planning on showing up with just quick draws, and no trad rack. Is that a mistake? Me and my buddy both usually 2nd, but since everything is sport at the quarry we're goanna go out just the 2 of us this time. Could make a stop at REI for some extra pro if yall think we'll have more fun that way. (I'll read all the route beta before we show up/but wanted to pitch this question to the group in the meantime. - good info for the main thread.)

Thanks in advance! Jun 17, 2016
Ben L
Las Vegas
[Hide Comment] So much rock is loose. I know it's tempting to make the best of what's around but if you get in a accident with falling rock, you'll quickly change your mind if you're still able. Definitely avoid the extra loose Wall of the immortals. Not trying to hate here.. the locals are awesome.. just commenting on the quality of the rock. Oct 4, 2017
[Hide Comment] Saw that Ted Coffelt just put out a new guidebook for Birdsboro, saw that they are for sale at the Doylestown Rock Gym but does anyone know if these are for sale anywhere online? I'd love to buy one. Oct 18, 2017
[Hide Comment] Pretty big rock fall in the Big Wall area. Completely covered the dirt path. Not sure of when it happened but regardless be careful navigating in that area. Nov 24, 2017
Nick Haha
Choosing the path less trav…
[Hide Comment] There’s another parking lot that’s about the same distance hike in. It brings you in by where the 2nd wire bridge kinda would of. Google old 82 & parking area and follow those directions to park along the street when it ends. The path is concrete with a lot of art along the way. Oct 20, 2018
[Hide Comment] The Birdsboro crew have replaced the missing cable crossing nearest to the climbing (not yet at Rustic Pavillion parking). It is a single cable this time, intended as a tyrolean so you'll need to bring a pulley or other suitable method to attach to the cable. Don't destroy your aluminum carabiners sliding across it (or a sling)! Nov 27, 2018
[Hide Comment] And now the cables have apparently been removed, so go to the south entrance or be prepared to ford Hay Creek. Try not to lose any food or oxen. Nov 5, 2019
Nathan Regouski
Landenberg
[Hide Comment] Can confirm, BOTH CABLE CROSSINGS have been removed when using the north access parking lot. The creek was shallow enough to cross barefoot, but be careful of glass and sharp rocks. Water goes to knee-high level. Use your stick-clip for stability. Nov 6, 2019
Eugenel Espiritu
Pennsylvania
[Hide Comment] I posted this on the route page for Zorro, but thought the incident should be noted on the main page. My partner had a severe accident on Zorro doing an alternate start of the arete this past weekend. A block of ~100lbs pulled off, cut her shoulder ~6cm long, ~1cm deep resulting in 6 stitches as well as severely bruised leg; a video taken shows the rock crossed the rope so luckily the rope was not cut. The block appears to have had experienced habitual use based on chalk on its edge. If you decide to do this route, I would recommend doing the direct and avoid using any of the fractured rock that is left of the arete. Will likely have PTSD and will likely not return to the area. Jul 22, 2020
Jr Peterson
Birdsboro
[Hide Comment] As of 2021 there is a pedestrian bridge for the first creek crossing and a trail up the road on the right that will bypass the second creek crossing so now you can park on the Rustic park/Birdsboro side without crossing the creek. Mar 4, 2022