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Routes in Sun Wall (Long Slabs)

Bulge Aria S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Cerca del paraiso (first pitch) S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cerca del paraiso (second Pitch) S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Enso, The S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fear-Virgin crossover S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Ghetto Palm S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
High Steppin' S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Like A Slabby Virgin S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Nine Line S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pennsyltucky S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Slabtastic S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Uwe comes to America S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Virgin Suicides S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Will Be Blood, The S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Will it stay or will it go S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 140 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 4,620 total, 47/month
Shared By: Paul Shultz on Nov 21, 2009
Admins: Justin Johnsen, Kyle Stapp

You & This Route


55 Opinions

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Description

2 pitches in length.

Semi-hanging belay at both anchors.

Enjoyable in late fall, winter and early spring. Probably to hot in summer.

Location

Route farthest right when facing the wall.

Protection

As many draws as you've got, as well as anchor materials.

Wear helmets! lots of loose stuff that comes off the top.

Can be just barely rapped from the top anchors with a 70 M rope. Otherwise 2 raps will be required.

Photos

Super slabby, deffinatly shouldn't have climbed this in my Scarpa Dragos, which are the thinnest most sensitive shoes I own. Fun route overall. My brother jumped on it thinking it was a 5.7 (first time at birdsboro), felt like a 5.7 until the last 4-5 bolts hahaha good time! We both sent it! Definitely go up with excess draws, we had to skip 2 bolts! May 2, 2017
Tom Thomas
Pittsburgh
Tom Thomas   Pittsburgh
This was a ton of fun. In fact I was surprised how much I enjoyed this climb. Yes there is some lose stuff but overall this climb should not be missed if you are in the area. Here are some long arms of me solo leading this classic.
















Aug 13, 2015
Rocket
 
Rocket  
 
First pitch: 11 draws + chains
Second pitch: 3 draws + chains
18 draws total Jul 31, 2014
gblauer Blauer
Wayne, PA
gblauer Blauer   Wayne, PA
Felt soft for a 9. There was always an edge (or more) for feet. Some nice crux moves, but, not particularly difficult if you get your body in the right position for the holds. I enjoyed this climb. Sep 22, 2013
MojoMonkey  
 
As an update to my last comment, either I was less observant last time or rock is flaking off from behind the hangers. There were more bolts with 1/4" or so of bolt exposed behind the hanger. 4-6? I didn't count.

And regarding Larry's comment on the four anchor bolts, the leftmost one is maybe 2" from an abandoned drill hole. Given the rock quality and that bolt spacing guidelines I've seen are 10x bolt diameter or 2x hole depth, I wouldn't recommend anybody running the climb as one long pitch chooses the left bolt to clip along the way, regardless of the hangers getting tightened. Aug 22, 2012
MojoMonkey  
 
A nice option on these colder, but sunny days. The climbing is fun - requiring technique/balance over strength. I would have given it 3 stars, but even after a few years the rock is still crumbling. As long as you are aware of it going in, it is a good time. Nice and long, I went all the way to the top in one shot (which was 15 draws, I believe - including clipping one bolt on the first anchor but not the top anchor).

On one of the earlier bolts the rock looks to have fractured as it was being drilled; you can see about 1/4 inch of threads on the bolt through the chunk missing behind the hanger. Nov 8, 2010
Jeffrey West
Anywhere, USA
  5.9+ PG13
Jeffrey West   Anywhere, USA
  5.9+ PG13
Lots of fun. A little sketchy at bolt 6-8, but really worth it. We went up with 10 draws and the lead climber had to pull a few on the way to make it. Great anchor/belay station.
Apr 13, 2010