Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Sun Wall (Long Slabs)

Bulge Aria S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Cerca del paraiso (first pitch) S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cerca del paraiso (second Pitch) S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Enso, The S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fear-Virgin crossover S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Ghetto Palm S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
High Steppin' S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Like A Slabby Virgin S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Nine Line S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pennsyltucky S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Slabtastic S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Uwe comes to America S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Virgin Suicides S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Will Be Blood, The S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Will it stay or will it go S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 150 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 421 total, 6/month
Shared By: Larry S on Apr 6, 2012
Admins: Justin Johnsen, Kyle Stapp

You & This Route


6 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

The topo says to start at Fear-Refactored (second bolt line off the ground) or Smear Factor (Third Bolt line off the ground). Topo says 5.9+, but we felt the start off of Smear Factor made it 5.10+, can't comment about the other start.

The main part of the climb moves up a small right facing corner that diagonals right past 6 or so bolts.

If starting from Fear, move up and left into the brushy alcove, traverse left thru it to join up the corner. I haven't tried this start so i can't comment on the difficulty.

If starting from Smear, head straight up directly next to and partly on the seeping moss covered face, make some balancy moves at the second bolt (crux) clipping 3-4 bolts, then move right to join the inside corner. Runners, skipping, or back-cleaning are recommended for the 4th and 5th bolt.

Second pitch is much easier, maybe 5.6? It continues up to the anchor for the second pitch of Virgin Suicides. There is alot of loose and dirty rock on this pitch, I had a few holds rip-out, take care not to kill anyone below on Virgin Suicides.

Protection

Many bolts, you'll need at least a dozen draws and runners.

Photos

- No Photos -
Zach Alles
Snowmass, CO
Zach Alles   Snowmass, CO
Definitely loose bits on this one. My partner and I both pulled stuff off of it. The crux for me seemed to be committing to standing on a hollow sounding flake before making your way into the up right leaning right facing corner. The bottom section definitely had some slimy moves. Nonetheless kinda fun. Running both pitches together makes for a thoughtful, moderate and somewhat sketchy route, if that's what you're into..definitely cruxy on the bottom 4-6 bolts. The rest is easy but look out for knocking rocks on people. Dec 6, 2015
Adam Gellman
Jersey City/Burlington
 
Adam Gellman   Jersey City/Burlington
 
bad route with horrible band of loose rock. If you must do this route, start left of the brushy ledge and stay fully left of the loose rock which lies directly above the brush. Oct 1, 2015