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Routes in Sun Wall (Long Slabs)

Bulge Aria S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Cerca del paraiso (first pitch) S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cerca del paraiso (second Pitch) S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Enso, The S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fear-Virgin crossover S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Ghetto Palm S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
High Steppin' S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Like A Slabby Virgin S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Nine Line S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pennsyltucky S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Slabtastic S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Uwe comes to America S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Virgin Suicides S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Will Be Blood, The S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Will it stay or will it go S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 110 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 539 total, 7/month
Shared By: Justin Johnsen on Aug 22, 2011 with updates
Admins: Justin Johnsen, Kyle Stapp

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Description

A long route, use a 70m rope for one pitch, or a 60m rope for two. A variety of wall angles are found on this route, starting with a face climb and ending with low angle slabs. You will get to experience knocking rocks loose onto every angle.

The belay station is thoughtfully placed out of the line of rockfall for both this route the one to its right (downhill) side. But learn from my novice mistake, and don't put your belayer here while someone is climbing the route to the left/uphill side (Will It Stay or Will It Go?).

Location

Halfway up the trail at the base of the Giant Wall. Follow a use trail along the left shore of the reservoir and into the woods. There's a route map of the Giant Wall when you reach it. Follow the trail up log-reinforced terraced steps to the left. When you reach a belay station with a short (~8 feet tall) dead tree standing next to start of the route, you've found it. There's also a traverse line strung to the right, the start of the 5.11 (Pennsyltucky).

Protection

8 bolts to the middle anchor, ? bolts to the top anchor.

Head protection is crucial for the constant rockfall, even more than usual for Birdsboro.

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