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Routes in Big Wall

Alpine Line (first pitch) S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Batman S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Broken Bit S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
CT7 S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Flippin Gravity (The Big Dumb Link-up) S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Flippin' the Bird S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Groovin' S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Hinterland (first pitch) S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Hinterland (second anchors) S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Laid Back and Well Hung S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Opposing Gravity/King Solomon S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Opposing Gravity/the Streak (1st pitch) S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Romania S 5.14 8c+ 34 XI- 34 E9 7b
Space Between, The S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Streak (second anchors), The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Twisted Sister S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Two Screws S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Vulgarian Pterodactyl S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Welcome to the Bird S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Wrecking Ball S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
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Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 4,398 total · 52/month
Shared By: MojoMonkey on Oct 17, 2011
Admins: Justin Johnsen, Kyle Stapp, SCPC

You & This Route


34 Opinions

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Description

Angles up and right to a good rest below a short, left-facing corner. Clip the bolt on the face left of the corner, not the old one on the right side of it. Technical crux is getting up this corner to the good holds above (and a bolt near the top of the corner).

From there head out right on good hands. Head up before working back left near the top. The upper section has good holds and fun moves - don't get pumped out before the anchors.

I found the anchors tricky to clip, but maybe I'm missing something or was just too pumped.

Location

On the left side of the big wall, right of Laid Back... and Twisted Sister.

Protection

Bolts (9, plus anchors)

Photos

Jon Clark
Philadelphia, PA
  5.12a
Jon Clark   Philadelphia, PA
  5.12a
One of the best at the crag. Great moves all the way. Dec 5, 2011
Next to the third clip on the right the hold before you bump and move around the face broke off and now has a larger ledge on it. Doesn't make it much easier just makes the match easier but the moves out are still difficult. Apr 4, 2017
James Weiss
Newport Beach, CA
  5.12a
James Weiss   Newport Beach, CA
  5.12a
A true endurance piece. The red point crux comes at the final bolt, but don't take clipping the anchors for granted either. Aug 28, 2018

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