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Routes in Big Wall

Alpine Line (first pitch) S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Batman S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Broken Bit S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
CT7 S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Flippin Gravity (The Big Dumb Link-up) S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Flippin' the Bird S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Groovin' S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Hinterland (first pitch) S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hinterland (second anchors) S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Laid Back and Well Hung S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Opposing Gravity/King Solomon S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Opposing Gravity/the Streak (1st pitch) S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Romania S 5.14 8c+ 34 XI- 34 E9 7b
Space Between, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Streak (second anchors), The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Twisted Sister S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Vulgarian Pterodactyl S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Welcome to the Bird S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Wreaking Ball S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Ryan Crossing? (9/29/12)
Page Views: 1,038 total, 16/month
Shared By: Crossing on Sep 29, 2012
Admins: Justin Johnsen, Kyle Stapp

You & This Route


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Description

Start off the ledge 6 feet up and launch right into the boulder problem crux of the route, which involves moving right on small holds and then up past the 2nd bolt to two small crimps. The boulder problem culminates with a deadpoint up to a good flat hold at the 3rd bolt. Big reaches to sloping holds deposit you at a wobbly jug for a good shake and a high reach to clip the 4th bolt. Move left and pull a cool roll over move and continue up on small sloping crimps past 2 more bolts. A second crux near the top involves pulling an the remnants of a bolted on flake and small sidepulls. Moving up to the jugs on Hinterland is the last bit of this route and the difficulty backs off, its a bit run out when you are clipping the anchors but the fall is clean and the climbing is easy at this point.

Location

In between Flippin' the Bird and Hinterland.

Protection

6 bolts to rap rings. I recommend stick clipping the second bolt because the clipping hold is small and it is a strenuous clip. If you fall you are swinging into the jagged portion of the ledge.

Photos

Jon Frisby
Brooklyn, NY
Jon Frisby   Brooklyn, NY
We pulled some rock off the starting flake today. It is not clean and will continue to deteriorate in small pieces. Belay with a helmet Nov 19, 2017