|Type:||Sport, 3 pitches, 300', Grade II|
|Original:||YDS: 5.14a French: 8b+ Ewbanks: 32 UIAA: X+ ZA: 32 British: E8 7a [details]|
|FA:||Chris Linder and Tim Kemple, Fall 2007|
|Submitted By:||James Garrett on Mar 13, 2008|
|Comments on All Around Routine||Add Comment|
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By Ryan Brough
From: Arvada, Colorado
Mar 14, 2008
|I saw the fixed line and gear when this line was being equipped. Really overhanging stuff. Looked hard then, still sounds hard to me...|
By Jonathan Siegrist
From: his truck
Apr 2, 2013
rating: 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b
A total classic. 10 stars. Movement, position, and holds that you will remember for a lifetime. Highly recommended. Hard if you're short.
Okay now for some very valuable beta. Do not climb the first pitch of Absorption to access the belay - climb the first 2 pitches of the 11 a/b to the right, respectively 5.9 and 10b, at the end of the second pitch look far left and traverse over to the anchor that's 10 feet right of the Mormon Tea bush. You can easily combine these two pitches with slings on bolts. It's way faster and more enjoyable. You can also rap to the ground with an 80 meter rope from here, although it will take a little sketchyness, but it's worth it to save an extra rap.
But first, before you even get that far, hike around back and rap the route. You will need to find the anchors to the neighboring 12a crack first in order to rap down, then rap and trend climbers left until you find a set of anchors with just quicklinks. You will need an 80m rope to get down. MAYBE a 70 will get you there with maximum rope stretch and sketchy bullshit (i.e. not recommended). Rap the route and tick holds, hang draws, etc. Be prepared for 10-15 (20?) feet between bolts, and zero chalk.
It's not your average sport climb, the hangout, the landscape, the rock - it's different and special! Do this route. It will make you a happier person. It worked for me!