Type: Sport, Aid, 400 ft, 5 pitches, Grade III
FA: James Garret
Page Views: 1,072 total · 14/month
Shared By: nelsras on Aug 7, 2012
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route

10 Opinions

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Ascends Arete 100 feet right of Absorption. Mostly bolted 5.9 climbing with 5.12 (A0) cheatable crux near the top.


10-12 draws


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Some of the bolts(old) and there replacements(new) make this a serious route for a 5.9 climber. This is a hard-man, desert, old school route...and a lot of fun! Nov 1, 2012
Suzy Stoke
Salt Lake City, UT
Suzy Stoke   Salt Lake City, UT
First Pitch is solid 5.11a, the crux is a near-blank dihedral that you stem awkwardly about 3 bolts up. Following that pitch, the next three pitches are 5.9+ of good climbing. When I was leading this I only brought quickdraws, if you don't like 20 foot run-outs I'd recommend bringing small gear (a set of nuts will do). It was way more exciting with the exposure and run outs in my opinion, but to each his own.

You come to a nice ledge at the top of the climb & there is an option 5.12c/d pitch(felt like 5.14) follow the obvious bolt line. The first two moves which seemed scarier than they actually were due to how high up you are, but can easily be aided by pulling up on your QD's and punching it to the top.

Best time to climb this is from 5-8PM, otherwise it's like touching a hot frying pan, worth catching the sunset on the rap down.

Brilliant Climb! Sep 15, 2014
Stan Pitcher
Stan Pitcher   SLC, UT
You can go a little left at bolt 3 on P1 and keep the pitch at about 9+. A couple of micro cams and nuts are all you might want be able to use gear wise. A single 70 will get you down. May 4, 2015
Aaron Child  
Great route on solid stone! I linked the 10a pitch with the last 12a pitch. The last pitch felt like 12a, albeit awkward, tricky Ibex style 12a. The pockets down low are way cool, and the basketball slopers at the top of the crux are classic. It's definitely some of the best rock I've climbed on, and one of the cooler 12a's I've onsighted, especially being 400 feet off the deck. Get on this thing!! Feb 23, 2016
Yea! It had been awhile for me and I would definitely agree with Stan and previous comments....bring a few small cams and even maybe some RPs for the "easier" run out sections....I never used to use them, but sure glad I had a few today!!

The bolts are all in good shape, but I, nevertheless, plan on replacing the old Leeper hangers with more modern equipment soon to calm peoples nerves a bit more:). A heady lead for 5.9 leaders. One of my favorite climbs at Ibex. Nov 5, 2017