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The Balcony
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YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Sport, 75'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Kenny Campbell
Page Views: 1,496
Submitted By: Alex Whitman on Apr 12, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (37)
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Henry Robinson just before the crux of Undertow 5....


Climb an excellent boulder problem on big pockets to a rest. Pull out onto the face and one more boulder problem then cruise to the chains on an excellent and easy face.


Past the Stephen King Library but before the Balcony area proper. About 25' to the right of "Mad Cow .12b" and just left of "Tool .11d" Look for an overhanging pocketed prow with lots of chalk.


11 bolts plus a two bolt anchor

Photos of Undertow Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Gettin' some on the upper boulder problem
Gettin' some on the upper boulder problem

Comments on Undertow Add Comment
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By Danny Hupp
From: Nashville, TN
Apr 30, 2014
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Very fun route. I was able to find four no-hands rests on this thing...not sure if it deserves 12a just because of that. Regardless, great climbing. Definitely recommended.
By JillianWeller
Dec 17, 2015
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

Low percentage second crux
By Jeff Edge
Dec 22, 2015

Bolt missing alert:
The second to last bolt and hanger are missing on this route, you can see where it used to be, but it's broken off at the rock.

It is pretty easy and safe to just reach right and clip a bolt on the next route, then reach back left to the final Undertow bolt, but you have to skip part of this route to do it.
By Brendan Blanchard
From: Boulder, CO
Jan 9, 2016

If someone brings some heavier metal out to the crag, the spare biner on the chains needs a good whacking to get out. Really annoying and plugging up the bottom chain. The biner is bent out, with the gate stuck against the nose but not hooked/closed.

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