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Routes in The Balcony

Alchemy S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Best Seat In The House S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cheap Seats S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Double Feature S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Equinox S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Fat Lady Sings S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
GeeBee's S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
General Admission S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Jungle Gym S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Mad Cow S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Nose Bleed Section S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pale Face S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sky Hook T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Stagefright S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Tool S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Undertow S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
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Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Kelly Brown
Page Views: 465 total · 11/month
Shared By: Taylor Roy on Mar 16, 2015
Admins: saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough

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5 Opinions

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An exciting route with hero roof climbing down low and a challenging headwall above.

Scramble up to a horizontal break just below the roof, make a long move to a big pocket, jump for the jug flake and burl over the roof to better holds. Once over the roof, rest up on decent holds below the next roof. Reach over the roof and work right along slopey pods. Make a big lock off to a three finger pocket and keep trending left on better holds to a couple of acceptable rest holds. Bear down on a few bad holds and enjoy a some jugs before clipping the chains.

This route has excellent rock and very engaging moves. However, it lacks the length and aesthetics to earn 4 stars. Hard for the grade.

Also, this route tends to stay dry when other routes are seeping.


Left of Undertow.


Bolts and a two bolt anchor with carabiners. Will need a very long stick clip to reach the first bolt.

Beware of a fall before the first bolt! There is potential to pendulum into the large boulder behind the route.


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Eli .
Eli .   GMC3500
Looks badly in need of re-bolting. Jan 13, 2018

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