Type: Sport, 75 ft
FA: Kenny Campbell
Page Views: 1,960 total · 23/month
Shared By: Alex Whitman on Apr 12, 2012
Admins: saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough

You & This Route


51 Opinions

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Description

Climb an excellent boulder problem on big pockets to a rest. Pull out onto the face and one more boulder problem then cruise to the chains on an excellent and easy face.

Location

Past the Stephen King Library but before the Balcony area proper. About 25' to the right of "Mad Cow .12b" and just left of "Tool .11d" Look for an overhanging pocketed prow with lots of chalk.

Protection

11 bolts plus a two bolt anchor

Photos

Danny Hupp
Nashville, TN
  5.12a
Danny Hupp   Nashville, TN
  5.12a
Very fun route. I was able to find four no-hands rests on this thing...not sure if it deserves 12a just because of that. Regardless, great climbing. Definitely recommended. Apr 30, 2014
JillianWeller
  5.12b
JillianWeller  
  5.12b
Low percentage second crux Dec 17, 2015
Jeff Edge  
 
Bolt missing alert:
The second to last bolt and hanger are missing on this route, you can see where it used to be, but it's broken off at the rock.

It is pretty easy and safe to just reach right and clip a bolt on the next route, then reach back left to the final Undertow bolt, but you have to skip part of this route to do it. Dec 22, 2015
Brendan Blanchard
Boulder, CO
 
Brendan Blanchard   Boulder, CO
 
If someone brings some heavier metal out to the crag, the spare biner on the chains needs a good whacking to get out. Really annoying and plugging up the bottom chain. The biner is bent out, with the gate stuck against the nose but not hooked/closed. Jan 9, 2016