Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: MIke Mckee
Page Views: 2,550 total · 24/month
Shared By: American Dankster on Jun 30, 2010
Admins: saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough

You & This Route


70 Opinions

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Description

Scramble up to the high first bolt. Toss your way through juggy horizontals. Decide your way of pulling out of the steepness and up to the anchors. (Hint: You can throw your feet into one horizontal and just hang out, no hands)

Location

Balcony, 25' right of Double Feature.

Protection

5 bolts, anchors

Photos

Seth Derr
harrisburg, pa
 
Seth Derr   harrisburg, pa
 
Only gets 2 stars in the book but was one of my favorite climbs at South Clear. Fun foot work and long throws through the roofs. Oct 15, 2012
Bfane
Knox, Tn
 
Bfane   Knox, Tn
 
Amazing route. Don't worry about the runout between the first 3 bolts, all the hard moves are well protected. And the roof is short, with jugs and clean falls. Mar 14, 2013
Marcus St Jolie
Moab, UT
Marcus St Jolie   Moab, UT
the shuts are worn through maybe 50 percent. bewaaare! Apr 12, 2015
I had a lot harder time with this crux than Paleface, much more beta intensive. Could use some new anchors too....... Sep 5, 2017
Andy C. Miller
Knoxville, TN
  5.11a
Andy C. Miller   Knoxville, TN
  5.11a
Good route. The start is kinda clunky, but the roofs have really solid movement.

Left a bail biner under the roof to help with cleaning. It's in good shape and makes cleaning WAY easier if you don't have a follower/don't want to climb it again. Sep 9, 2018
Russ Keane
Asheville, NC
Russ Keane   Asheville, NC
Seemed really hard . Oct 24, 2018