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Routes in The Balcony

Alchemy S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Best Seat In The House S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cheap Seats S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Double Feature S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Equinox S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Fat Lady Sings S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
GeeBee's S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
General Admission S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Jungle Gym S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Mad Cow S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Nose Bleed Section S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pale Face S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sky Hook T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Stagefright S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Tool S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Undertow S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
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Type: Sport, 85 ft
FA: James Gose
Page Views: 12,910 total · 98/month
Shared By: Jonathan Petsch on Nov 25, 2007
Admins: saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough

You & This Route


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Description

Follows the left side of the arete. The crux is at the beginning, and it would probably be a good idea to stick clip the first bolt for the first couple of times you do the route. Easier to go a little around the right at the crux than straight up. The climb gets it's name from the gorgeous view of the Clear Creek and Obed Rivers

Location

The balcony is and obvious slab facing toward the trail. a defining feature for Best Seat is a large rectangular hole in the rock. the start of Best Seat is near the base of the large tree at the rightmost end of the balcony. You might find this tree useful to chimey up against to stick clip the first bolt before climbig the crux

Protection

sport route: bolts about every 8 feet
JohnWesely
Red River Gorge
 
JohnWesely   Red River Gorge
 
The view from the top and position bump this from one star to two. The climbing itself is pretty forgettable. Mar 16, 2012
saxfiend
Decatur, GA
  5.10a
saxfiend   Decatur, GA  
  5.10a
This is an excellent line, makes for a highly memorable lead! It was occupied all day on my first trip to the Obed, so I was determined I'd get on it this time, and it was worth the wait. May 21, 2012
Seth Derr
harrisburg, pa
 
Seth Derr   harrisburg, pa
 
I agree with John on this one. The view from the top was spectacular but not all that different from the view above Spawn and Shadowhawk, both of which i thought had better climbing. Oct 15, 2012
I've climbed this route 5 or 6 times, and it's one of my favorite moderates at the Obed. The crux is right off the ground, and a steep dropoff to the right of the belay makes it a good candidate for a stick clip. The easiest beta I've found is to trend up and right to a small alcove/ledge on the arete. From there,move onto the left face for a string of long reaches and balancy moves on positive (but thin enough to keep it interesting) holds to the cleanest topout in the canyon.

For a change of pace, I recommend belaying the second up from the top and taking a few minutes to enjoy the scenery. Mar 8, 2013
EthanC
 
EthanC  
 
Pretty forgettable climbing, and view from the top of "Spawn" is better if you can do it. Jun 17, 2014
Eli .
GMC3500
 
Eli .   GMC3500
 
Do not forget to top out, it is the reason why this route is so good! Apr 22, 2015
Jim Urbec
sevierville, TN
 
Jim Urbec   sevierville, TN
 
What Ethan said!

the top of "best Seat" is good of you want to take a group shot. But the view atop "Spawn" is 100% better May 11, 2017
Russ Keane
Asheville, NC
Russ Keane   Asheville, NC
Way different than your typical Obed climb. I can see how people find it bland, but I found it tricky and pretty fun. Regardless, there's not much to try below 5.10 so you have to jump on this if you are looking for low grades. Apr 29, 2018

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