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Routes in The Balcony

Alchemy S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Best Seat In The House S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cheap Seats S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Double Feature S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Equinox S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Fat Lady Sings S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
GeeBee's S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
General Admission S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Jungle Gym S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Mad Cow S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Nose Bleed Section S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pale Face S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sky Hook T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Stagefright S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Tool S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Undertow S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
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Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: C.J. Drews
Page Views: 6,901 total · 53/month
Shared By: Chuck Parks on Jan 31, 2008
Admins: saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough

You & This Route


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Description

Amazing. Start by balancing up the slab to the roof, then traverse left carefully until you can reach up and clip the first bolt. Dance up the corner diagonally to the right, underneath overhangs, until you are where the corner cuts back to the left. Rest while you can, then venture up and to the right across the pale face to a horizontal break. Now straight up through horizontals in the overhanging face to the anchors. Pumpy, exposed and super-fun!

Location

About 150 feet from the buttress where General Admission is. Look for a slab leading up to a low-lying roof. First bolt is on the lip on the left end of the roof.

Protection

6 bolts, anchors w/chains

Photos

Cragmama Lineberry
North Carolina
  5.11a
Cragmama Lineberry   North Carolina
  5.11a
Beautiful rock, great moves, scary lead! Dec 12, 2011
sanz
Raleigh, NC
 
sanz   Raleigh, NC
 
Awesome! The exposure through the crux is great. This route is nice and spicy for the area - one bolt more than Pet Cemetery and about twice as long! Jun 3, 2013
I ended up skipping the bolt at the crux. I was too pumped to clip so I just kept climbing. There is a pretty nice rest at the next bolt, especially if you trend slightly to the right. May 21, 2016
Fun route and very straight forward, what you see is what you get. More pumpy but less beta intensive than Alchemy. Sep 5, 2017
Eli .
GMC3500
  5.11a
Eli .   GMC3500
  5.11a
no one should skip the crux bolt on this thing. it is easy to lean out and clip if from the stance before the crux.
also there are only 6 bolts on this route. Jan 13, 2018
Josiah Dover
Chattanooga, TN
 
Josiah Dover   Chattanooga, TN
 
Upper section is pretty well protected if you're decent at the grade.
Just beware before getting on this route: the first bolt is something like 15ft off the ground. Unless you have a long stick clip, you have to climb up to a roof, traverse over, then reach up over the ledge to clip the first bolt. Wouldn't advise on lead unless you're okay with unprotected 5.9ish climbing Jul 17, 2018

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