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Joe's Valley

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Nearby Mountain Bike Rides

Josephite Point Trail
Almost seven miles of beautiful singletrack. Near Manti, Utah
Forest Road 0041
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New Ride
An unexpected delight in a part of Utah little known for mountain biking. Near Orangeville, Utah
Old Highway 29 - Joe's Valley Reservoir to Skyline Drive
The climb up to the very nice Josephite Point Trail or Skyline Drive. Near Orangeville, Utah
Luke's Trail
The quintessential Price Bike Trail. Near Carbonville, Utah
Luke's Loop
Luke's Loop combines a handful of trails to make up a quick singletrack loop with great views. Near Carbonville, Utah
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Joe's Valley Rock Climbing 

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Location: 39.2765, -111.1739 View Map  Incorrect?
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Administrators: Aeon Aki, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Peter Franzen on Oct 30, 2006
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It's a long toss. I'm sticking that sucker next t...


Joe's Valley is one of the world's premier bouldering destinations. The sandstone boulders that line the hillsides are seemingly made for climbing: the rock is textured but skin-friendly, it's featured yet strong, and the landings are generally fantastic. Approaches are almost all 5 minutes or less, and many of the most popular boulders are just a stone's throw from the car.

There are hundreds of established boulder problems at the various areas within Joe's Valley, and yet a quick glance at the innumerable boulders farther up the hills hint at even more untapped potetntial for world-class bouldering.

While there are problems of every grade at Joe's, it is my impression that the best experience will be had at V4 and above.

Getting There 

Joe's Valley is just outside of the town of Orangeville, UT. Take Hwy. 29 west out of Orangeville. Shortly after leaving town you can either take a right onto Route 57 to go to New Joe's, or you can keep going straight until the road branches into the Left and Right forks.

Driving time is around 2 hours from SLC, 6-7 hours from the Front Range in Colorado, 14 from Portland, etc.

Food and Supplies 

There are a handful of stores in Orangeville, but the best place to go for food is the Food Barn. They even have copies of the Utah Bouldering guide in case you forgot to pick it up before heading out.


There are 3 main areas that are well-suited for camping at Joe's. Two are in the Right Fork at .9 miles up and 2.4 miles up (the first being at the Man Size area, the second at the Boux area)-- both are on the left. The third campground is 1.2 miles up the Left Fork.

Climbing Season

Weather station 9.3 miles from here

435 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',50],['3 Stars',195],['2 Stars',153],['1 Star',35],['Bomb',1]

Classic Climbing Routes in Joe's Valley

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Joe's Valley:
Buoux Crack   V1 5 R     Boulder, 30'   Right Fork : Buoux Area
The Angler   V2 5+     Boulder, 15'   Left Fork : Riverside Boulders
Super Sloper   V3 6A     Boulder   New Joe's : Area 51
Michelangelo   V3 6A R     Boulder, 20'   Right Fork : Man Size
Don't Leave Too Soong   V3 6A     Boulder, 15'   Left Fork : Riverside Boulders
Pimpn' Jeans   V3-4 6A+     Boulder   New Joe's : The Closet
Self Service   V4 6B     Boulder, 15'   New Joe's : Self Service
Bowling Ball   V4 6B     Boulder, 12'   Right Fork : Buoux Area
The Comedian   V5 6C PG13     Boulder, 15'   Right Fork : Man Size
Kill by Numbers   V5 6C     Boulder, 8'   Left Fork : Mine cart area
Rug Rat   V5 6C     Boulder, 15'   Right Fork : UMWA Boulder
Frosted Flakes   V5 6C     Boulder   Right Fork : The Hulk
Pocket Rocket   V6- 7A     Boulder   New Joe's : Anarchy
Wills A Fire   V6 7A     Boulder   Left Fork : Right Sign Area
Scary Monsters   V6 7A     Boulder, 15'   Left Fork : Big Joe
Low Tide   V6 7A     Boulder   Left Fork : Riverside Boulders
Feels Like Grit   V6+ 7A     Boulder, 15'   Left Fork : Riverside Boulders
Planet of the Apes   V6-7 7A+     Boulder, 12'   New Joe's : Chip and Dale
Chips   V7 7A+     Boulder, 12'   New Joe's : Chip and Dale
Baldwin Bash    V7 7A+     Boulder, 12'   Right Fork : Dairy Canyon
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Joe's Valley

Featured Route For Joe's Valley
Rock Climbing Photo: line is up the center

The Wind Below V7 7A+  Utah : Joe's Valley : ... : Power Line Area
Crux: After doing the dynamic move to the jug rail, there is a tree growing on the right side of this ledge. Heel hook right and reach up to a bad crimp with your right hand (although I have seen it done with the left). Slowly lock off and reach a decent set of crimps 15ft up. The crux is over, but the commitment is not. New beta has been found that uses a mono after doing the first big move eliminating the original sequence described above. Hence, the downgrade....[more]   Browse More Classics in Utah

Photos of Joe's Valley Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Frank loving every second of the sharp crimpfest, ...
Frank loving every second of the sharp crimpfest, ...
Rock Climbing Photo: isaac on the FA of death scream v10
isaac on the FA of death scream v10
Rock Climbing Photo: Some of the wildest sandstone. Guess the start hol...
Some of the wildest sandstone. Guess the start hol...
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking towards New Joe's on a windy day.
Looking towards New Joe's on a windy day.
Rock Climbing Photo: The Angler
The Angler
Rock Climbing Photo: Make sure to stop by the Food Ranch for a fresh do...
Make sure to stop by the Food Ranch for a fresh do...
Rock Climbing Photo: isaac on the FA 2008
isaac on the FA 2008
Rock Climbing Photo: Benjamin Mackall Photography  Milky Way from Right...
Benjamin Mackall Photography Milky Way from Right...
Rock Climbing Photo: Riverside Boulders, Spring Sends!
Riverside Boulders, Spring Sends!
Rock Climbing Photo: Kid climbed his first V00.
Kid climbed his first V00.
Rock Climbing Photo: Luke Childers loving the winter style camping on h...
Luke Childers loving the winter style camping on h...
Rock Climbing Photo: The gang (Luke,Peter,Josh with Jay taking the pic)...
The gang (Luke,Peter,Josh with Jay taking the pic)...
Rock Climbing Photo: huge problem by new joes v4
huge problem by new joes v4
Rock Climbing Photo: death scream
death scream
Rock Climbing Photo: v8
Rock Climbing Photo: good times in the right fork as tyson marshall wal...
good times in the right fork as tyson marshall wal...
Rock Climbing Photo: v9
Rock Climbing Photo: If you happen upon this goat, give her some celery...
If you happen upon this goat, give her some celery...
Rock Climbing Photo: the winds broke 2 of our tent poles
the winds broke 2 of our tent poles
Rock Climbing Photo: Joe's after a spring snowstorm.
Joe's after a spring snowstorm.
Rock Climbing Photo: v8 by new joes
v8 by new joes
Rock Climbing Photo: death scream left project
death scream left project
Rock Climbing Photo: beam me up scotty
beam me up scotty

Comments on Joe's Valley Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Apr 30, 2017
By kBobby Hanson
From: Spokane, WA
Dec 11, 2006
Here are some more detailed directions to get to Joe's Valley for ice climbing. These directions are from SLC.

Take the Spanish Fork exit (258?) off of I-15 to US-6, like going to Moab. Take the second Price exit to Hwy 10. Follow for 22 miles to Huntington. Continue for another 6 miles to the sign that indicates Joe's Valley on the right. This is Hwy 29. Follow this until the "T" intersection, and bear right. Follow this into Straight Canyon, and eventually to the reservoir. Most of the ice is in Straight Canyon, with some more up by the reservoir.

Also, here is a link to a remote weather station in Joe's Valley.
You can view weather history, up to 30 days. However, the station is located at 8000 feet. Keep this in mind when making the decision whether to head down or not.
By willo schubarth
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Jan 21, 2009
I would recommend the Video Guide to Joe's Valley a film by Nathan Cando, it goes through 28 of the classic problems and also a guidebook that plays during the movie. Found wherever climbing videos are available.
By scott kuchinski
Jul 22, 2009
October is great. Average 50-70 degrees. Great friction.
By EChristensen
From: Bozeman
Apr 6, 2010
Anyone know about access to the Innumerables? Is it okay to climb there? If so, where do you park?
By Eckhard
From: Denver, CO
Sep 1, 2010
I hear (&see as posted) October is great at Joe's, but what about Mid to Late September? too hot? just right early morning late afternoon? or shady spots of canyon? Any beta the Sept weather would be sweet: thanks!
By Emerson Takahashi
From: Casper, WY
Nov 26, 2010
Does anyone know how the bouldering conditions are in December/January...?
trying to make a ski/climbing trip this winter.
By wude72
Oct 27, 2011
Isaacs new guide book has excellent info in it. Pretty cool book too.
By Hoboken
Nov 20, 2011
Hey does anyone know how the temps are late December? is it possible to climb and camp during that time?
By Andrew G Nelson
Feb 16, 2012
@ Wude72 - How do I order the Joe's guide off MarkHor Climbing? Clicking add to cart doesn't do anything. Can't find it anywhere else.
By Kent Dunham
From: Alberta
Feb 28, 2012
Isaac's new guide is available at

pretty good I'd say.
By Jon Lachelt
From: Fort Collins, CO
Apr 11, 2012
Knight, why is the new guidebook no good?

I'm heading there for my first trip, so I don't have any way to evaluate other than how it looks.
By Kent Dunham
From: Alberta
Apr 11, 2012
I just got back from a trip to Joe's and I found Isaac's guidebook to be great (a million times better than anything else out there) as far as getting you to the areas and boulders. The pictures are great and do the rock justice. Some of the grades seemed off, A few route descriptions are not accurate (like Resident Evil) and there are some funny spelling mistakes (it's "Remnants" not "remnence) but I found that easy to ignore. The only thing I hate about it is the move-by-move beta description for each climb. I believe a proper guidebook should have clear description of start holds, finish and the line followed, nothing more.

I also noticed a lot of other climbers with the guide and no one was burning thier copy, so it can't be all bad
By Emerson Takahashi
From: Casper, WY
Sep 12, 2012
@ Hoboken
Depending on the winter we're having, YES, you can absolutely go and camp in the winter.

I was there on new year's and temps never dipped below freezing at night, and during the day in the sun it felt around 60 degrees. T-shirt weather no problem

Some winter nights can definitely be miserable though, so always keep an eye on weather.
By Christian Prellwitz
From: Telluride, CO
Oct 20, 2012
Honestly, it all depends on the year. I've climbed in January with no snow on the ground in some years, while other years you're post holing through 3 feet of snow. I would keep an eye on the webcams for the area (google it!) and see how things are playing out. If it's relatively snow free on the ground, go for it. As long as you're in the sun, you'll most likely be warm enough. If it gets too cold or snowy, bail to Moab or St. George. Camping will be cold though...
By Greg Corn
Jan 8, 2013
I want to go to Joes/Ibex/Triassic in mid-March or should I go mid-April?
I have to book holidays and I want more sun than snow/rain. What do you suppose locals, is the better choice?
By Christian Prellwitz
From: Telluride, CO
Jan 10, 2013
If you want a better chance of warmer weather and less snow (both on the ground and potentially falling from the sky), go in Mid-April. Mid-March can still be pretty hit or miss regarding the weather. The good thing about going in mid-April is that even if it's on the warm side, you can always find thins in the shade and/or go to higher elevations like Dairy Canyon. Hope that helps.
By db2882
Mar 7, 2013
I am looking at doing an extended trip to Joes Valley (3ish weeks) and I would not have a car. I had a few questions to see if this might be possible.

How close is the camping to town?
How close is the camping to the climbing?
What is the vibe/crowd like in early april? Would it be easy to meet people to climb with and go into town with?

These may be stupid questions, but I would love to hear from some one who knows the area better if they thing this it is possible to do.
Mar 15, 2013
If you bring a bunch of full strength beer I'm sure you will have no problems.
By user id
Mar 16, 2013

While beer is always a plus, I haven't had a drink in Utah under 6% in years? JS has one good point, a kind offering of any nature will take the sting out of stuffing you into someone's already packed car?

The camping is about 2 to 3 miles from town.
The camping is at the climbing.
The vibe/crowd is great, just a few douchebags from avon?

I don't believe you'll have any problems at all? Meeting good folks down there is easy. The earlier/later you go the better, in the summer its a bit of a ghost town.

When are you thinking of going? I don't quite have the free time I used too, but if I'm down there when you are? I'll help zip you around.
By Sean Denny
From: Irvine
Mar 30, 2013
Hey guys,

I'm headed out here Apr 6th for a week or so. I don't have time to wait for the guidebook to come in the mail, is it sold somewhere in town?

By Christian Prellwitz
From: Telluride, CO
Mar 31, 2013
The guidebook is sold at the Food Ranch in Orangeville (like 10 mins from Joe's).
By Jake Charland
From: Boulder, CO
Mar 31, 2013
By Emerson Takahashi
From: Casper, WY
Apr 29, 2013
You can find spots to climb in Joe's Valley YEAR ROUND, especially with the recent developments up in Dairy Canyon, where the elevation is around 8,500 ft.

Climbing Dec-Feb is very possible. Some weeks temps are in the 50's and it's all dry, some weeks are below freezing with snow everywhere.

Best time to go is March to May and then again around September through November depending on snow.

I don't really like going in April since all the spring breakers swarm the area, and my favorite time to go is late fall.
By JSirley
Sep 15, 2013
Was at right fork yesterday the access and parking was okay but the slopes feel pretty loose and a bunch of the camping spots are now wash outs. The left fork was still closed as of last night. New joes seems to be untouched just a few trails washed out. Thanks for the beta BD guy.
By Rain
Sep 19, 2013
Anybody know if there's a good place to get wi-fi and a charge in Orangeville? I'm a traveling designer and really want to come back to Joe's for a few months this Fall, but I rely on my laptop based tech job to keep my dog and I alive. Kind of an odd question I'll admit, so if anyone has beta I'm grateful.

Update: There's wi-fi at the Food Ranch
By Leeanne
From: Denver, CO
Apr 19, 2014
Is beginning of August way too hot?
By Christian Prellwitz
From: Telluride, CO
Apr 19, 2014
Leeanne- climbing might be tolerable in the shade, particularly in the morning and evening, and up in Dairy Canyon since it's a bit higher in elevation.

Climbing in the sun is likely going to be brutal. Temperatures will likely be in the upper 80's to low 90's.
By Salt Lake Climbers Alliance
May 30, 2014
Rock Climbing Photo: Joe's Valley Adopt a Crag
Joe's Valley Adopt a Crag

1st Annual Joe’s Valley, Utah Adopt a Crag Saturday April 5th a Success!

Work gloves and coffee cups in hand, thirty rock climbers gathered last Saturday, April 5th at the Man Size camp in Joe’s Valley ready to give back to this increasingly popular rock climbing destination. The Food Ranch in Orangeville kicked off the work day with their donation of amazing donuts and coffee.

The Bureau of Land Management and Forest Service worked alongside climbers putting in 200 hours of work. Volunteers eliminated superfluous fire rings and removed at least a thousand pounds of ash from the Man Size Camp fire pits. In an attempt to curb camp site creep, parking areas and campsites were delineated. Two informational kiosks were installed to educate climbers about how to use Joe’s Valley responsibly to protect the watershed. Brats and brews were shared after the work with a BBQ provided by Detour and Shades of Pale Brewing Company. Leave No Trace was even on hand to discuss LNT principles to help climbers enjoy Joe’s Valley responsibly.

The climbing resources that exist in Joe’s Valley lie within both Bureau of Land Management (BLM) and United States Forest Service (FS) jurisdiction and are located in the watershed of Emery County. The Access Fund and Salt Lake Climbers Alliance have brought these land managers to the table along with local Emery County officials and Utah Tourism partners. The goal of this partnership is to enhance and protect access to the rock climbing resources while being good environmental stewards of the watershed.

The 1st Annual Joe’s Valley Adopt a Crag was a success, however Man Size Camp is but one area in Joe’s Valley in need of stewardship and climbers need to invest in the future of this area. The Access Fund and the American Alpine Club have granted the Salt Lake Climbers Alliance with funding to do a “Joe’s Valley Informal Trails, Disperse Campsites, and Bouldering Recreation Site Assessment”. This assessment was requested by the land management agencies and will advise resource planning for the future. The assessment allows climbers to influence how the climbing resources will be managed and gives ownership to climbers of a well-loved Joe’s Valley.

Please get involved with this effort by becoming a member of the Salt Lake Climbers Alliance and the Access Fund at Membership dollars go towards future Adopt a Crags as well as to help fund the seasonal port-o-potties that the Salt Lake Climbers Alliance has provided at $2500/year for the past six years.

Thanks to all who came out to give their time and muscles to this Adopt a Crag. Stay tuned for upcoming Adopt a Crags happening in the Wasatch by LIKING the SLCA Facebook page and staying up to date at
See you on the rock!

Julia Geisler
SLCA Executive Director

Rock Climbing Photo: kiosk and latrine
kiosk and latrine

Rock Climbing Photo: adopt a crag joe's
adopt a crag joe's
By yann gauthier
Aug 17, 2014
By Salt Lake Climbers Alliance
Nov 18, 2014
Thanks to the American Alpine Club Cornerstone Grant, the Access Fund Conservation Grant, those who contributed to the fundraisers that the Salt Lake Climbers Alliance and the Boulder Climbing Coalition put together, and to two dedicated consultants Jeff Porucznik and Jonathan Knight, the SLCA would like to share this Joe's Valley Recreation Impact Assessment.


The climbing community will be asked to bring funds to the table for improvements at Joe's Valley based on the findings and recommendations in this assessment. The BLM and USFS are conducting an Environmental Assessment of this area that the Joe's Valley Recreation Impact Assessment will help to advise. Please stay tuned and in the meantime, please follow good climbing ethics and protect Joe's Valley climbing.
By NeAdamthal
Apr 6, 2015
Anyone interested in selling their Joe's valley guidebook? just discovered it is out of print and the family and I are headed there in a couple weeks... anyone have any suggestions? We will be heading thru Denver on our way there... maybe someone wants to make some cash to pay for their new guidebook this fall :)
By GBek
Jul 23, 2015
Does anyone know if you can still get the guide book at Food Ranch? And/Or

Is this website legit?

I've also heard there is a new guidebook being worked on. Any word how close that is?

Thanks for the help!
By Ben
Sep 1, 2015
@ GBek - I was at Joe's (for the first time...awesome!) last week and can tell you the Food Ranch does NOT have any copies of the guide book. I managed to navigate pretty well with the help of mountain project but would be extremely interested in information related to when/if an updated book would be available.
By D B
From: Denver
Sep 22, 2015
Go to the American Alpine Club Library in Golden and you can take pictures of the guidebooks they have.

I've heard of a PDF of A Bouldering Guide to Utah floating around. I don't have it (but would be grateful if someone emailed me a copy :) )
By Christian Prellwitz
From: Telluride, CO
Sep 22, 2015
For those wondering, this is the Facebook page for the new guidebook that will hopefully be coming out soon. It's being written in part by Steven Jefferey so it should be pretty good and pretty accurate, and a significant improvement over the Caldiero guide. The samples looks great.
By Mitch Redford
Oct 6, 2015
I am hoping to make a trip out to joes valley the first 2nd week of march, would there be too much snow and bad weather or would that be a good time to go. If the weather is usually too bad at that time and recommendations as to somewhere else where the weather will be milder?
By jdgoblue
Nov 3, 2015
Hey there, I'm heading to Joe's with some friends from Thursday (11/5) until Sunday aka this coming weekend.

Would anyone be willing to let us borrow a guidebook? Cheapest ones we can find for sale are like $100+ and the new one isn't out yet. We'd gladly buy you a couple beers or something for your help.

DM me if you can help out.

Nov 10, 2015
Climbed with some ladies from Boulder by the riverside boulder this weekend and a pink Columbia vest was left behind! I knew that was your last stop and we were there a while after you, so hopefully you'll see this and I can get that thing mailed to ya.
By Rounks Rounkles
Dec 24, 2015
is there still free camping available in joe's or have they started charging climbers yet? the last relevant post i could find on this was 2010 didn't want to be surprised when we showed up. thanks for any help!!!
By Jake Dickerson
From: Lander, WY
Nov 1, 2016
Yeah, Camping is still free and can be found all along the Right Fork and driving in to New Joe's. Please do not climb after rain and give the rock plenty of time to dry out. Also if nature calls, use a wag bag or the outhouse along the road to New Joes, or back in Orangeville. There is also free wifi at the library.
By mwho
From: SLC, UT
Mar 13, 2017
I found a pair of sunglasses at the Sandbox boulder in left fork this past Saturday March 11th. Message me with a description of them, and we'll figure out a way to get them back to you.
By Eric Carlos
From: Chattanooga, TN
Apr 30, 2017
There is also free wifi at the new coffee shop in Orangeville called Cup of Joe's. Great coffee and super friendly family running the place. They don't mind if you fill up water from the spigot right out front, any time of the day or night.

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