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Elevation: 4,777 ft 1,456 m
GPS: 38.9926, -113.3883
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
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Shared By: Andy "RED" King on Feb 5, 2007 · Updates
Admins: Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher

Description Suggest change

Nestled in the remote Tule Valley, Ibex is an incredible, isolated area overlooking a massive dry lakebed. It is home to many behemoth red quartzite boulders, a plethora of sport climbs, and even some unique trad lines. The massive former lake bed adds to the feeling of isolation, but also draws some non climber folk to the area. It servers as an impromptu runway for small planes, drag strip for fast cars, and hosts the occasional desert music festival. That being said, most visits to Ibex will grant you total isolation, free camping, incredible star-gazing and 5 star climbing.

The main Ibex area is in the northwest end of Tule Valley, near highway 50. "Ibex" has often been used as a catch-all for all climbing in the mountains and valleys surrounding the area, but an increased development in recent years warrants additional organization of the areas. The aptly named Confusion Range hosts Ibex and everything north of Crystal Peak Road (13), extending far north, between the Nevada border and the House Range. The Wah Wah Mountains encompass those areas south of Crystal Peak Road, including Crystal Peak. Notch Peak, due north of the main Ibex area, is part of the House Range.

Find more info in the Utah Bouldering guide, or James Garrett's Utah's West Desert Guidebook

Getting There Suggest change

The easiest way to get there is from Hwy 50. The exit off of the highway is on the right heading east, or on the left heading west, around mile marker 38 or 39, just passed the Ibex Well sign if your heading east. You will know it is the right road because there are two posts at the entrance where you can tell there used to be a sign. follow that dirt road for about 2.1 miles where you will come to a couple stacks of rocks marking the next turn. turn right at the rock piles heading back west. cross the dry lake bed and you pull straight up to the crag.

202 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Ibex

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V6-7 7A+
 10
Bigger is Better
Boulder
V7 7A+
 27
Ju
Boulder
V7 7A+ PG13
 20
White Arete
Boulder
V8 7B
 12
One Eyed Man
Boulder
V8 7B
 8
The Flogiston
Boulder
V9 7C PG13
 13
White Arete Sit
Boulder
V10 7C+
 13
Bruce Lee
Boulder
V10 7C+
 7
Pan Galactic Gargle Blaster
Boulder
V11 8A
 7
Bone Collector
Boulder
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 48
Aurora Borealis/Lunar Power
Trad 6 pitches
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 31
Ride the Wave
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 8
Quarter Inch from Falling
Trad, Sport
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 83
Ewe.F.O
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 13
Nose Shadow
Sport 4 pitches
5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
 6
Blood Meridian
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Bigger is Better Bouldering > Red Monster Area > Thing II
 10
V6-7 7A+ Boulder
Ju Bouldering > Red Monster Area > Red Monster
 27
V7 7A+ Boulder
White Arete Bouldering > Red Monster Area > Thing 1
 20
V7 7A+ PG13 Boulder
One Eyed Man Bouldering > Sunny's Boulders
 12
V8 7B Boulder
The Flogiston Bouldering > Fossil Canyon
 8
V8 7B Boulder
White Arete Sit Bouldering > Red Monster Area > Thing 1
 13
V9 7C PG13 Boulder
Bruce Lee Bouldering > Red Monster Area > Red Monster
 13
V10 7C+ Boulder
Pan Galactic Gargle Blaster Bouldering > Sunny's Boulders
 7
V10 7C+ Boulder
Bone Collector Bouldering > Red Monster Area > Thing II
 7
V11 8A Boulder
Aurora Borealis/Lunar Power Quartermoon Tower > E Face
 48
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 6 pitches
Ride the Wave S Corridor > Holey Moley Wall
 31
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Quarter Inch from Falling Quartermoon Tower > N Face
 8
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad, Sport
Ewe.F.O Corral Crags > Ewe For Real Wall
 83
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Sport
Nose Shadow Shadow Buttress
 13
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport 4 pitches
Blood Meridian Snakeskin Buttress
 6
5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a Sport
More Classic Climbs in Ibex »

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