12 Pitch, Grade IV, 5.11 limestone monster. Adventure climbing in remote canyon. Rockfall danger; requires discretion in gear placement. All day fun. Most of the route is easy to find; 9 out of 10 rap down in the dark.

Notch Peak canyon (no name on USGS topos) West side of Sawtooth Mountain, House Mountain Range, West desert, Utah

Getting There

45 minutes west of Delta, UT. Highway 6/50.
Take Notch Peak loop on WEST side of Sawtooth mountain. This dirt road also goes to Painter Springs. Turn right,towards mountain at an abandoned gravel pit. The entire region looks like a gravel pit. Identify the correct pit by a road turning left, back to the highway, just after you pass your road toward the mountain.
Sedans can make it up this road until the big squarish boulder. 4WD vehicles can drop into the riverbed (dry) just before the boulder.
Don't hike the canyon at the end of this road. Notch Peak canyon has an large and obvious dry riverbed all across it. The correct canyon is 200 Meters south.

7 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: Notch Peak Change
Type:  to 
Sort by:   then:

Classic Climbing Routes at Notch Peak

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
La Fin du Monde
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Western Hardman
Trad 12 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Book of Saturday
Trad, Sport 12 pitches
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Appetite for Destruction
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
La Fin du Monde
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Western Hardman
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad 12 pitches
Book of Saturday
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R Trad, Sport 12 pitches
Appetite for Destruction
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a Trad
More Classic Climbs in Notch Peak »

Sun & Shade

Weather Averages

Days w Precip
Prime Climbing Season
Duncan Murray
Salt Lake City
Duncan Murray   Salt Lake City
Please remember to bring a HELMET regardless. A HEADLAMP (Check the batteries I made that mistake once), and plan according to your abilities. It's a great climb but you should prepare for a full day. Hike to the climb before sunrise and climb till dark. Late July the sun is only on the wall in the early morning! Nov 11, 2006
Western Hardman is my favorite route on Notch Peak. Kudos to Aaron and CJ. I still think our bivy just out of the stream bed below the route was the way to go and such great camping, as well! I WOULD have liked to see more bolts up high! Strange if you rap drilled the upper ones, they were the hardest to protect in my book...not the last one, but the one before that.
Still thanks for a great line and whoever disses Notch Peak climbing just hasn't climbed newer lines on limestone before...what do you think the Marmolada was like in 1938? You guys need to just stay on your 30m sport crags and quit bitching....
Cheers Nov 19, 2006
Duncan Murray
Salt Lake City
Duncan Murray   Salt Lake City
Aaron and I went back and added about 6 bolts, one on the traverse to pitch 11 to make that safer, also, I believe one went up on pitch 11 to help direct the correct climbing path and as well help protect it. Another on pitch 10, and on 9, two others went up somewhere, hopefully on route as it was getting really dark by thenÂ… kidding! Jan 26, 2007
Mark Michaels
Draper, UT
Mark Michaels   Draper, UT
The amount of climbable rock in this vicinity is mind blowing. There is another canyon like Sawtooth a few miles north in the House Range which looks to contain several BIG domes/crags. Nov 29, 2007
Anybody know where I can get beta for Empty Sky (aka NW Ridge)? Mar 23, 2010
ddriver   SLC
The old rope ladder (long gone) at the step on the approach to the North Face has been replaced with a more permanent installation. First round of work was May 28, finished June 3. You may want to harness up at the base of the step so you can daisy in and make the upper transition safely, but the June 3 work probably negates that need. Two fixed raps were also replaced, the upper also used as a batman. Note that the fixed line just above the step is in the bowl to looker's left, not the main drainage.

Updated 4 June. May 29, 2012
Spencer Weiler
Salt Lake city
Spencer Weiler   Salt Lake city
Just fyi, the turnoff road up to the canyons is 6.6 miles from highway 6. The gravel pit is not super obvious to spot at night, so the mileage helps. Also, another marker is the road coming in from the left to make a 3 way junction at the correct turnoff. While not mandatory, (we made it up in our Hyundai elantra) a high clearance vehicle is really nice to have, though it is only a mile or two. Jun 23, 2013
Pleasant Grove
jzp   Pleasant Grove
39.157,-113.453 is this the approximate location of the sedan parking? Sep 25, 2013
karl kvashay
cedar city, utah
karl kvashay   cedar city, utah
Notch looks Awesome!! Just moved out to utah n this is on the radar. With all the loose rock, etc., im wondering how these routes were established. Any FA history/anectdotes y'all could share'd be appreciated. Has anyone done any ground up routes/attempts? please share Sep 30, 2013
Congratulations and kudos to Niels Tietze and Mason Earle who did the First (known) Winter Ascent of the complete lower and upper North Face of Notch Peak in one day. IMHO the most bad ass climb that probably anyone will do in Utah this year! The two Utah locals connected Western Hardman and La Fin du Monde on one cold day 8 January 2015. Thanks for relating the adventure:)!! Feb 19, 2015
The 2 mile two track road from Notch Peak Loop road to the bottom of Notch Peak Canyon requires a vehicle with at least medium clearance. It has some soft sandy sections, tons of rocks and is eroded. Taking a sedan up it is no longer advisable; a Subi should get u up there. Sep 11, 2016
As stated above, the road seems to have deteriorated to some degree. There's a very rough patch a few hundred yards above the 4-way dirt road intersection that seemed impassable for sedans, so you may be looking at an extra few miles of hiking on an otherwise nice dirt road. Similarly, a few spots above the "squarish boulder" were really sketchy even with 4WD. Sep 2, 2018