Type: Trad, 6 pitches, Grade III
FA: Howe, Wheeler, Culberson
Page Views: 315 total · 16/month
Shared By: Jim Howe on Apr 15, 2023
Admins: Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane

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Description Suggest change

Developed in traditional ground up style.  Located in a corner and chimney system, the route is mostly shady.  It is a good route for a shorter day or an alternative to access routes on the upper north face.  It is not faster than the standard approach, as the band separating upper and lower north face is longer than expected.  Thunder Road has generally good quality stone and a moderate grade,  but loose rock is a hazard on all Notch Peak routes.

Pitch 1-- low 5th class  34m.  A bolt about half way up has a sling on it to ID the route and secure a couple of exposed moves. Climb a staircase of black, water stained rock to a fixed anchor. The rest of the route is now visible. Scramble/walk up and left to the fixed anchors of pitch 2 (this is a good place to change into climbing shoes if you are planning to rappel after finishing the route.)

Pitch 2 -- 5.8  31m.  3-4 bolts.  Low angle smooth slab to a steep, left facing, black corner.  Fixed anchor (or continue up and right past 1 bolt to an alternative fixed belay)-- See Topo

Pitch 3-- 5.9/5.10-  27m. 4-5 bolts.  Climb up slabby face and into the chimney/corner to a steeper finish onto a ledge with anchors .  

Pitch 4 --5.9  30M 1 bolt. Chimney. Stemming and face moves to fixed anchors.

Pitch 5 -- 5.7  20M  Continue up chimney ( or hand crack 5.9) and climb to anchors on left wall.  (can be combined with pitch 6)

Pitch 6-- 5.9 20M. Vertical black face, 3 bolts and small gear. Continue to fixed anchors.  From here you can unrope and scramble to upper North face and access La Fin or BOS (30 minutes) or rappel the route

Location Suggest change

Located about 15 minutes past "Western Hardman” still well before the approach ladder.  Turn right up a small, narrow gully It should be marked with a small cairn (~5 min) . it is past the turn off for “”Eastern Softboy”.  The route is unique for Notch peak being mostly in a corner/chimney.  Because It is water washed, it's generally cleaner and more solid than other N face routes. The route is not visible from the turn off of the main approach. 

Protection Suggest change

A single 70m rope will work for ascent and descent. A light rack of cams,  TCU's to #3 camalot should suffice (# 4 cam can be occasionally useful.). Quickdraws and long slings.

Photos

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