Type: Trad, Grade IV
FA: Dave Shewell Jim Howe may 2001
Page Views: 12,347 total · 80/month
Shared By: Jim Howe on Mar 9, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Description

This route is located on the lower face of Notch Peak. It was put up in pure ground up style. It offers a challenge for climbers with experience on loose mountain routes. It is similar to big routes in the Canadian Rockies, or less traveled routes in the Italian Dolomites... serious and objectively hazardous. When combined with either BOS or La Fin to the summit of Notch, it yields a real grade V. Even if you are usually fast, bring your headlamp.
Be aware that this route is somewhat more serious than Book of Saturdays or Western Hardman. At least one of those routes would be a good introduction into what to expect. Be ready, because this route will deliver big adventure. It is remote, and long falls are possible. The crux pitches can be reduced to 5.11 A0 but there is some 5.10 runout climbing. The climbing may be generally described as vertical, technical, edges/crimps so bring your edging shoes. Good luck, take it seriously.

Location

Hike 50 minutes up the drainage under the N face of notch peak. (occasionally a cairn is in the drainage but is often washed out in flashfloods) The start of the route is marked by a bolt with a faded sling on it, maybe 150 meters to the left of Western Hardman (see the Beta photo). The route can be rappeled with 2x 60M ropes. From the top band is preferable to hike out along the approach to the upper wall, or rappel "Western Hardman" if you know that descent.

Protection

minimum of 1 set of cams, tcu's to 3.5"; 8 long runners. 14 quickdraws, 2x60m ropes. Bolts are 10mm stainless for protection and at all belay stations (nice)
This route offers runouts, loose rock, difficult and committing climbing

Photos