Type: Trad, Grade III
FA: Dave Shewell Jim Howe
Page Views: 11,360 total · 70/month
Shared By: Jim Howe on Mar 9, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

This striking arete bounds the right(west)edge of the Upper North face of Notch peak. It offers more sun, maybe less rockfall hazard since it is on an arete. Two of the belays are directly on the crest of the arete giving nice views into the valley and across the dark North face. Cool! It is graded 5.10 but is similar in difficulty to Book of Saturdays. with the crux being in the same sandy band of rock that cuts through the wall. The arete rises in 3 distinct sections. The route is also known as "Pillars of Faith" following the religious theme. It was put up with traditional ground up ethics. a variation "road to perdition" at 5.10+ is a nice technical finish (3 final pitches) to keep the excitment alive. Tommie and I put this variation in by rappelling in from the top (pre-inspection/cleaning) and leading out while placing gear and bolts, hence, "Road to Perdition".

Location

It is best to approach via the Lower N face routes (20 minute walk). But for a more casual outing, you can also also approach as for Book of Saturdays. It is best to rappel down BOS after summiting, it will make the hike out easy, and avoid a walk back under the face.

Protection

10mm Stainless bolts, minimum of 1 set of cams from tcu's to 3.5". quickdraws/runners. expect some runout climbing on looseness (usual Notch peak fare). See topo for details

Photos