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Routes in Notch Peak

Appetite for Destruction T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Book of Saturday T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Further On Up The Road T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
La Fin du Monde T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Western Hardman T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Trad, Grade III
FA: Dave Shewell Jim Howe
Page Views: 8,925 total, 68/month
Shared By: Jim Howe on Mar 9, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


6 Opinions

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Description

This striking arete bounds the right(west)edge of the Upper North face of Notch peak. It offers more sun, maybe less rockfall hazard since it is on an arete. Two of the belays are directly on the crest of the arete giving nice views into the valley and across the dark North face. Cool! It is graded 5.10 but is similar in difficulty to Book of Saturdays. with the crux being in the same sandy band of rock that cuts through the wall. The arete rises in 3 distinct sections. The route is also known as "Pillars of Faith" following the religious theme. It was put up with traditional ground up ethics. a variation "road to perdition" at 5.10+ is a nice technical finish (3 final pitches) to keep the excitment alive. Tommie and I put this variation in by rappelling in from the top (pre-inspection/cleaning) and leading out while placing gear and bolts, hence, "Road to Perdition".

Location

It is best to approach via the Lower N face routes (20 minute walk). But for a more casual outing, you can also also approach as for Book of Saturdays. It is best to rappel down BOS after summiting, it will make the hike out easy, and avoid a walk back under the face.

Protection

10mm Stainless bolts, minimum of 1 set of cams from tcu's to 3.5". quickdraws/runners. expect some runout climbing on looseness (usual Notch peak fare). See topo for details
Greg Gavin
SLC, UT
 
Greg Gavin   SLC, UT
 
The road to perdition finish adds a good amount of fine climbing to cap off an already stellar day if linked with the lower wall. Look for the 2 chain belay (weird) at the base of the route with a steel brush tied onto it. To the right of this is a notable left facing corner that starts out rather low angle, and ramps up into a chossy pod. Below this pod and to the left is the first bolt. Aug 20, 2015
Climbed Fin the end of July. We started hiking around 6 am to get to the base because it was supposed to be in the 90's that day. The sun hit right before we started the first pitch. It was on us all day but we never got too hot or too cold. If I remember right, we both had light jackets on for about a third of the climb. What a great adventure route! The climbing was pretty straight forward. Just make sure to look at the topo before you climb each pitch; getting off route is a possibility (really nice topo by the way). Having climbed Book of Saturday's and Western Hardman, this route makes a great intro to Notch Peak, and to adventure climbing. Well worth the hike, the climbing is easy fun and the views are amazing. Aug 5, 2015
Jordan Moore
Berthoud, CO
Jordan Moore   Berthoud, CO
What are the conditions on Notch Peak like in the summer, and more specifically La Fin du Monde? Jun 16, 2014
Sam Cannon
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10 R
Sam Cannon   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10 R
Jim - it was an awesome adventure. Everything from the hike in to the raps down the N face were pretty memorable. Great line as well, beautiful positioning with some awesome sections of climbing. Thanks for putting it up! My partner added some of his pics to the page for posterity. Apr 26, 2014
Jim Howe
Salt Lake city
 
Jim Howe   Salt Lake city
 
Sam, hope you had a good adventure and nice photo additions. Makes me want to get back out there. Apr 24, 2014
Sam Cannon
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10 R
Sam Cannon   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10 R
After pulling the crux moves past the bolts on P4 go left around the arete. The guidebook by James Garret mentions a piton but I didn't see one. What I DID see was another bolt with a long sling on it to my right (off route). The bolt tempted me that way and I succumbed. The rock above the bolt is terrible. Sandy, loose, bad pro - don't go to that bolt. After the crux moves head left wherever it seems easiest, I doubt it makes a whole lot of difference exactly where, around the arete and onto the face. Apr 19, 2014
Eric Chabot
Salt Lake City, UT
 
Eric Chabot   Salt Lake City, UT
 
Climbed this in a party of 3 on 6/17. We linked pitches 1 & 2, as well as 4 & 5, but watch out for rope drag. The crux moves of p4 are well bolted.

Pitch 6 was very very exposed and cool, dead vertical rock with lots of big hollow sounding huecos, the best on the route I thought. Rapping after this pitch would be possible but you'd be showered with rocks and probably get your rope stuck.

Pitch 8 had some extremely loose sections--at one point at least 50 lbs of rocks came fell down a little gully I was climbing. Routefinding was challenging for me on this pitch, and good pro was sparse but the climbing was easy.

With better rock quality this route would be ****. Feel free to PM me if you want a pitch-by-pitch spraydown Jun 20, 2013
sooba
 
sooba  
 
makes a pleasant mountain day ... not as commiting as the other routes.... and still get to the top.... then rap book of saturdays. (90 mins fair estimate if you know the raps to get down Book of Saturdays). You can easily Rap la Fin from top of pitch 4 (maybe 5), but after that it gets lower angled and involved to rap. Mar 15, 2007