Type: Trad, Sport, 130 ft
FA: Tim Toula, James Garrett, May 2007
Page Views: 612 total · 7/month
Shared By: grk10vq on Apr 7, 2013
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

Perfectly named, this route is a full on adventure. A Quarter Inch from Falling has the potential to be over 15 feet of flying!

This line is the wildest of rides through the most varied of terrain. A fine mixture of trad and sport, cracks and face, the gear here is great, but don't expect a lot of it. With only a handful of bolts in about 130 feet, skills of all forms are deemed necessary. Multi-cruxed, this route really does have everything.

P1: Climb Quartermoon or Moonshine to an anchor at a large ledge. Once here, its safe to say you can top out on the ledge and belay from the base of the climb.

P2: From the Quartermoon ledge, this route starts up the obvious seam that splits the face just left of the chimney. Climb the seam to it's end and break right towards a lone bolt. Transfer right into another thin crack and work up, then left to the base of a wide, bulging crack. Follow this odd, wide feature to shallow ledge and land yourself at yet another mild rest at the base of a rounded prow. Forge on up the pumpy, cryptic face passing a few more bulges and bolts. Top out on a ledge and follow two more bolts to the tower's top and a two bolt anchor.

Fun, fantastic, and a little crazy, this is another JG/TT classic.

You can rap the line w/ a 70m rope, however it comes up short by about 5 feet, i'd recommend rapping into the Quartermoon chimney and then down climbing.

Location

A Quarter Inch from Falling starts on the large ledge above the first pitch of Quartermoon.

Protection

The new guide recommends a set of cams w/ extra 2's and 3's, however the biggest piece I placed was a .75 bd. I'd recommend a set of medium to large nuts and cams from .2 to .75 to keep it light. I'd also bring about 4 to 5 slings and 6 draws.

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