Avg: 3.7 from 3 votes
|Type:||Trad, Sport, 130 ft|
|FA:||Tim Toula, James Garrett, May 2007|
|Page Views:||612 total · 7/month|
|Shared By:||grk10vq on Apr 7, 2013|
|Admins:||Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq|
This line is the wildest of rides through the most varied of terrain. A fine mixture of trad and sport, cracks and face, the gear here is great, but don't expect a lot of it. With only a handful of bolts in about 130 feet, skills of all forms are deemed necessary. Multi-cruxed, this route really does have everything.
P1: Climb Quartermoon or Moonshine to an anchor at a large ledge. Once here, its safe to say you can top out on the ledge and belay from the base of the climb.
P2: From the Quartermoon ledge, this route starts up the obvious seam that splits the face just left of the chimney. Climb the seam to it's end and break right towards a lone bolt. Transfer right into another thin crack and work up, then left to the base of a wide, bulging crack. Follow this odd, wide feature to shallow ledge and land yourself at yet another mild rest at the base of a rounded prow. Forge on up the pumpy, cryptic face passing a few more bulges and bolts. Top out on a ledge and follow two more bolts to the tower's top and a two bolt anchor.
Fun, fantastic, and a little crazy, this is another JG/TT classic.
You can rap the line w/ a 70m rope, however it comes up short by about 5 feet, i'd recommend rapping into the Quartermoon chimney and then down climbing.