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Farley Ledge

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Farley Ledge Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 42.59639, -72.44176 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 54,785
Administrators: Joe M., Old Timer, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Robbovius on Jul 3, 2007
Forecast:
Today

70° | 62°
Wednesday

74° | 61°
Thursday

77° | 55°
Friday

75° | 55°
Saturday

81° | 61°
Sunday

84° | 62°
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Beautiful Fall day on Cuddlefish .11a benjamin-ma...

Private Property with limited allowed access. Do NOT add routes here. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is a large, multiple-outcrop, gneiss crag in Erving, MA (nearly to the NH border north of Springfield), close to Route 2 in western Massachusetts. It is somewhat secluded, not especially popular, though the rock and climbing are quality and enjoyable. Routes are trad, bolted, mixed, and top-rope-able. Grades range from 5.4 to 5.14b. Below and all along the crag, there is an extensive boulder field below with many enjoyable and challenging problems, from V0- to V12/V13.

Getting There 

The crag is right off Route 2 in Erving. From Route 2, either East or West, look for Holmes Street (heading west, it's on the right, heading east, on the left). Drive up Holmes street to Wells Street, take Wells to the end of the pavement, and turn right onto Cross St. The current Farley parking area is right there, literally in someone's front yard, identified by a large sign (with "Farley Ledge Parking" and various notices attached) and a series of posts stuck into the ground defining the parking area, and with a smaller sign attached to one post reading "8 Car Limit". As the sign reads, there is only room for 8 cars. A log-construction house abutts to the right of the parking area.

Expect a 20+ minute hike from the parking lot. The Farley trailhead is on the other side of the Log house from the parking lot, near a waist-high boulder, and with a square post at the trail head with the letters "M-M" painted on it in white. Follow this trail thru the woods (about 1/5th-1/4 mile) until you come to an obvious intersection at the cascades to the nearby stream, surrounding a large, angular boulder. The M-M trail continues off to the right over a wooden bridge, and the Farley trail continues into the woods ahead, across the dirt road heading left, and identified by a metal sign with the words "Farley Ledge" and a left-pointing arrow cut right into the metal.

Continue to follow this trail into the boulder field, and eventually you will see the crag appearing thru the trees on your right. Various small rockpiles/cairns identify trails heading up to the crag face.

To ensure continued access to Farley, respect for the landowners who have allowed access through their properties is paramount. Please be respectful of their yards and homes when visiting Farley. LNT.

Climbing Season

For the All Locations area.

Weather station 4.1 miles from here


Featured Route For Farley Ledge
Photos of Farley Ledge Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Climbing the roof of Oosik.
Climbing the roof of Oosik.
Rock Climbing Photo: Only at Farley do you get to climb out of a cave i...
Only at Farley do you get to climb out of a cave i...
Rock Climbing Photo: Diabolic.
Diabolic.
Rock Climbing Photo: Spring climbing accident at Farley (Jeep slid on t...
Spring climbing accident at Farley (Jeep slid on t...
Rock Climbing Photo: Cool features on the upper tier.
Cool features on the upper tier.
Rock Climbing Photo: Leading an airy 5.5 on the right hand wall of the ...
Leading an airy 5.5 on the right hand wall of the ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Farley Ledge map #1.
BETA PHOTO: Farley Ledge map #1.
Rock Climbing Photo: The crux of 6' man roof (5.11d).
The crux of 6' man roof (5.11d).
Rock Climbing Photo: Brian Delany catching a fall. He finished the rout...
Brian Delany catching a fall. He finished the rout...
Rock Climbing Photo: Corky Munn on an ice route.  Even though Farley is...
Corky Munn on an ice route. Even though Farley is...
Rock Climbing Photo: Farley parking...be considerate of the landowners!
BETA PHOTO: Farley parking...be considerate of the landowners!
Rock Climbing Photo: Patrick and I getting ready for another great day ...
Patrick and I getting ready for another great day ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Farley Trail Sign at the cascades.
Farley Trail Sign at the cascades.
Rock Climbing Photo: Leading up the bolted 5.9- Air Blast line, on the ...
Leading up the bolted 5.9- Air Blast line, on the ...
Rock Climbing Photo: A tall (70+ feet) fissured dihedral on the left ha...
A tall (70+ feet) fissured dihedral on the left ha...
Rock Climbing Photo: Top roping a scary, airy 5.12 line on the Bat Cave...
Top roping a scary, airy 5.12 line on the Bat Cave...
Rock Climbing Photo: Robbovius leading a 5.6 fissured dihedral in the B...
Robbovius leading a 5.6 fissured dihedral in the B...
Rock Climbing Photo: John Corville doing a FA (?) in the '70s about 5.8...
John Corville doing a FA (?) in the '70s about 5.8...
Rock Climbing Photo: Fantastic unknown arete problem.  benjamin-mackall...
Fantastic unknown arete problem. benjamin-mackall...
Rock Climbing Photo: Myself on a 5.7 in the '70s.
Myself on a 5.7 in the '70s.
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking out at the anchors of Airblaster.
Looking out at the anchors of Airblaster.
Rock Climbing Photo: Target Practice.
Target Practice.
Rock Climbing Photo: Farley.
Farley.
Rock Climbing Photo: Jake heading up a classic....
Jake heading up a classic....

Show All 27 Photos

Only the first 24 are shown above.

Comments on Farley Ledge Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jul 4, 2017
By Peter Zpittvar
Apr 20, 2009
There is a new parking area for Farley. It lies about 0.5 miles west on Highway 2 of the old Wells Street parking lot described above. It's located on the old Lehman property. Turn left (towards the cliff) and drive up into a small gravel parking lot. Park closely to allow room for as many cars as possible.

Walk 5 minutes to the base of the Amphitheater area.
By jrathfon
Jun 3, 2009
2 posts needed on RC.knob and one at MP?

Did you check the areas forum?

mountainproject.com/v/eastern_...

The land owner's have specifically asked that guides not be published for the area (this includes online). That said if you show up, a local will show you around, me included. Chances are you weren't sand-bagged as what got an online "consensus" grade of 10b is (and has been for 3 decades) a consensus 8, and what got an online grade of 10c/d is a consensus 9. The routes are graded like New England climbs, not Rumney climbs (I know Rumney is in New England, paradox, eh?), i.e. know how to hand jam.
By tcamillieri
From: Denver
May 24, 2010
Speed of Life Video

Speed of Life (V10)
.
By RockinOut
From: NY, NY
Jun 29, 2011
Hasn't access been restored to Farley Ledge? I heard rumors that the Climbers Coalition came to an agreement with the landowners....any updates?
By Jeff Squire
Jul 22, 2011
Climbers have had access to Farley for the past 12 (?) years since the Western Mass. Climber's Coalition was created and got involved. The WMCC went so far as to purchase land to construct a public parking area in 2007/2008. While access has been GREATLY improved, we still don't own any of the land where the cliffs are located. The WMCC has a great relationship wth current landowners, but anything can happen. Additional land, including the cliffs, are being pursued but until it's sold, not much will change.
By Kaylee Catmull
From: Riverside, CA
Jun 2, 2013
Can't wait until the WMCC can move on the purchase of the land where the cliffs reside.
Awesome work with the Farley preservation project.
By JD1984
From: Worcester, MA
Jul 16, 2013
Extra thanks to the WMCC and the Access Fund who recently did a lot of trail work at Farley! Excellent work! Finally made it back out here the other day for a very enjoyable day of climbing.
By Margie
Apr 22, 2014
Hi Farley climbers,
I went climbing at Farley on Sunday with a group of friends and managed to leave just one shoe (Nago, size 5.5, greenish-blue). If anyone finds (or already found) it please let me know! (power2runners at yahoo)
Thanks!
By SpencerB BB
From: Pasadena, CA
Jun 2, 2014
Hi,
I was climbing the easy trad line just to the left of where the approach trail hits the main cliff on Sunday (6/1/2014) and found a cam and two quick draws on the route and anchor. Let me know if you forgot your gear and we can figure out a way to get it back to you.
By Will Kirby
Jun 19, 2016
WARNING: I got part way up 6-Foot Man today before noticing a decent-sized hornet nest right below the fourth bolt. If someone has means and inclination to remove it, that would be great; otherwise, I'd stay clear.
By ckersch
Nov 7, 2016
Someone left a Mad Rock draw up at the crag yesterday. It's clipped to the sign at the overflow parking lot.
By Brian
From: North Kingstown, RI
Dec 5, 2016
The description is really old and should be updated. Specifically, "It is somewhat secluded, not especially popular, though the rock and climbing are quality and enjoyable."

"Not especially popular"? If you don't get here really early the parking lots are full. Very popular is a better description.
By Graham O.
Jan 18, 2017
Can anyone tell me where "Chronic" (V5) is located and how to get to it from the new parking lot? I am excited to get on it, but it isn't mentioned in the guidebook and obviously isn't on here, so I don't know how to get to it.

Thanks much!
Graham
By Joe M.
Administrator
Jan 19, 2017
There is a "guide" on the kiosk in the parking lot which I think shows where Chronic is. If not, it is down the main trail heading east (I think), past almost everything, on the left. Very easy to find.
By Graham O.
Jan 20, 2017
Great, thank you!
By Tyler Shaneaman
From: Northampton
Jan 27, 2017
I'm interested in heading here to do some climbing as soon as the weather allows. What does one do in lieu of a topo?
By Brian
From: North Kingstown, RI
Jan 27, 2017
Tyler,
The standard operating procedure at Farley is to ask someone what the climb and grade is. Unfortunately, there has to be someone around, and they have to know what they are talking about. I had one climber tell me a climb was 10a and another climber tell me the same climb was 11b. So, bring a leave-it biner, and do some adventure climbing.
By Austin hoyt
Apr 12, 2017
Does anyone know where I could find a good guidebook for bouldering here?
By Jeffrey.LeCours
Administrator
From: New Hampshire
Apr 13, 2017
Hi Austin,

Welcome to Mountain Project!

At the top of areas (like Farley Ledge) you'll find a red outlined section in the description that contain access information. The WMCC and local climbing community have been working really hard to keep our access to this area and one of the restrictions is that there be no published guidebooks. Check out the MORE INFO >>> link at the top of the page to read more.



With that said, the local climbers are typically very friendly and can usually help get you to the right area. There is a kiosk at the parking lot which shows the trails. On a nice day, there will surely be folks on some of the classics who will probably be happy to share what they know. It's part of the experience.
By Tyler Shaneaman
From: Northampton
Jul 4, 2017
Hi folks, I'm looking for a lead climbing partner to enjoy Farley and some of the surrounding areas with. Any advise for how to meet others in a similar boat?

email is best: schu123tyler@gmail.com.

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