All Locations > Massachusetts > Western MA > Farley Ledges

Tweaky Bird/Speed of Life/Wave Boulder Climbing

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Elevation:	557 ft
GPS:	42.59915, -72.44291 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	5,385 total · 34/month
Shared By:	Grady Jackson on Oct 31, 2010
Admins:	sara pax, Old Timer, jim.dangle, Joe M Page Updates (admin only)

Access Issue: Private Property with limited allowed access. Do NOT add routes here. Details

The climbing is on private land the landowner (not the local climbers) is requesting that climbers do not publish information on the routes at Farley Ledge. The Western Mass Climbers Coalition folks are trying to help assure that the landowner's wishes are respected, and users are requested NOT to post route information on Mountain Project.

Since Farley is all on private land, the owners have the ability to take access away at any time if they feel that overcrowding is happening. And they are sensitive to this overcrowding and watching it.

In order to protect the access that we do have at Farley, we are taking down route information should be taken down in order to respect the landowner's wishes.

The WMCC is working on a longer-term solution for the area, and will make information more readily available so that folks understand the issues and don't feel that access is being restricted simply to keep the area sacred to the locals.

Portions of Farley Ledge are also now closed for peregrines. The Zen Garden and the Four Tiers are open, but in between is closed (Courtroom, Main Slab, Pinnacle, Yellow Wall, K2 area, and the Balcony.

Description

Note from the WMCC: these two giant boulders contain some of the best boulder problems anywhere. This area is on property owned by a private landowner just down the hill and these boulders are some of the closest to the houses as well. Because of this it is even more important to think long-term about our impact around this area. Maintaining a low profile and being mindful and respectful of your surroundings can help keep these boulders open for future generations to enjoy. If climbing in this area please avoid using radios or making excess noise, avoid night climbing and bright lights, and be aware that the small structures located down the hill from this boulder are well-houses for pumping water to the homes below. Do not use these areas as a bathroom. Please urinate as far away from the water source as possible and use a wag bag or hike out to the porta potty for anything else.

This is a large 45 degree block. It is home to Speed of Life, Party Wolf, Tweaky Bird, and more.