All Locations > Massachusetts > Western MA > Farley Ledges

Zen Garden/Pooh Buttress Climbing

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Elevation:	638 ft
GPS:	42.59788, -72.444 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	2,783 total · 15/month
Shared By:	Chris Hillios on May 27, 2008
Admins:	sara pax, Old Timer, jim.dangle, Joe M Page Updates (admin only)

Access Issue: Private Property with limited allowed access. Do NOT add routes here. Details

The climbing is on private land the landowner (not the local climbers) is requesting that climbers do not publish information on the routes at Farley Ledge. The Western Mass Climbers Coalition folks are trying to help assure that the landowner's wishes are respected, and users are requested NOT to post route information on Mountain Project.

Since Farley is all on private land, the owners have the ability to take access away at any time if they feel that overcrowding is happening. And they are sensitive to this overcrowding and watching it.

In order to protect the access that we do have at Farley, we are taking down route information should be taken down in order to respect the landowner's wishes.

The WMCC is working on a longer-term solution for the area, and will make information more readily available so that folks understand the issues and don't feel that access is being restricted simply to keep the area sacred to the locals.

Portions of Farley Ledge are also now closed for peregrines. The Zen Garden and the Four Tiers are open, but in between is closed (Courtroom, Main Slab, Pinnacle, Yellow Wall, K2 area, and the Balcony.

Description

This is a moderate trad area with quality rock which is ~90 feet in height.

The ground here is not dusty like amphitheater. There are good climbs from 5.6 to 5.10 This area sees less traffic than the main amphitheater and suits groups fairly well.

Getting There

From the Amphitheater, walk up and right (take the lower of the 2 trails). Continue around following the cliff. Note that there is also an access trail that goes down to the main trail.