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Ceuse Rock Climbing 

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Location: 44.4991, 5.9366 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 33,469
Administrators: Euan Cameron, Luc-514, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: LeeAB Brinckerhoff on Jan 7, 2009

57° | 35°

50° | 36°

51° | 32°

50° | 27°

59° | 27°

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BETA PHOTO: A colorful and motivational topo of the different ...


Limestone... Duh, Amazing routes...Check, Longish approach...Yes. Can be crowded on weekends, but seclusion can be found if that is what you are after. Singular brilliant cliff band crowning a hilltop. Face curves from West to South to East so sun and shade can be had pretty much anytime you want, to cold or wet in the dead of winter, the top of the cliff is a ski slope. Summer follow the shade, late fall follow the sun. The cliff is divided into about 12 different sectures and each has its own character, some are lower angle and more boken, others sport stunning stripes of blue and orange, some are just plain huge and others quite dark and intimidating.

Great routes from 5.10 to as hard as you can climb. Single and multi pitch sport climbing. A rack of 15 or more draws and 70m rope will do on most routes, of note the guide book only mentions if routes are longer than 35m so if you have a 60m rope beware.

Because of the long approach many climber stash their rope, QD's, shoes and harnesses under the boulders at the cliff they plan on climbing at the next day or a favorite spot, and just hike up with clothes food and water. This has lead to problems in the States most notably with bouldering pads but at the time I visited it seemed like standard practice.

Getting There 

Make your way to Gap. Then head up the hill to Sigoyer and up D219 toward the hill top cliff. There is camping on the right, Les Guerins and a gite/auberge (mini hotel/bed and breakfast) on the left and finally parking at the Col Des Guerins at the end of the road.

Climbing Season

Weather station 30.5 miles from here

79 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',29],['3 Stars',41],['2 Stars',6],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Ceuse

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Ceuse:
Les sucettes à l'anis   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 85'   Secteur Demi Lune
Katina   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 80'   Secteur Demi Lune
Harley Davidson   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 70'   Secteur Demi Lune
Saint Georges Picos   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 80'   Secteur Biograpie
La Javanaise   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 80'   Secteur Demi Lune
Pourquoi Pas   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 100'   Un pont sur l'infini
La Petite Illusion   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 80'   Secteur Berlin
Angel Dust   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 80'   Secteur Demi Lune
Super Mickey   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 75'   Secteur Cascade
Blocage Violent   5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 70'   Secteur Berlin
San John's Pecos   5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b     Sport, 80'   Secteur Berlin
Berlin   5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b     Sport, 70'   Secteur Berlin
Makach Walou   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c     Sport, 85'   Secteur Berlin
Le Privililege du Serpent   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c     Sport, 80'   Secteur Cascade
Carte Blanche   5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c     Sport, 80'   Secteur Demi Lune
Couleur du Vent   5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c     Sport, 70'   Secteur Berlin
Les Colonnettes   5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c     Sport, 100'   Secteur Biograpie
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Ceuse

Featured Route For Ceuse
Rock Climbing Photo: 'la javanaise' on the left and 'gre blanc' on the ...

Gre Blanc 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a  Europe : France : ... : Secteur Demi Lune
A newer line and also one of my favorite climbs at the Demi-Lune. I don't think i'll ever get tired of doing this one. Classic Ceuse face climbing on pockets and edges up a slightly overhanging orange wall. Start on good pockets which slowly get smaller until you make thin moves out left which lead to a sequential crux over a slight bulge at 40ft. More thin moves on shallow pockets lead through a couple big pockets good enough to shake out on. One more final crux through the final bulge (tricky...[more]   Browse More Classics in International

Photos of Ceuse Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Morning light on the Ceuse massif.
Morning light on the Ceuse massif.
Rock Climbing Photo: Hiking to the crag
Hiking to the crag
Rock Climbing Photo: Sommerfugl, Ceuse  Photo by Thomas Michalsen
Sommerfugl, Ceuse Photo by Thomas Michalsen
Rock Climbing Photo: view from the crag
view from the crag
Rock Climbing Photo: obligatory full frontal shot
obligatory full frontal shot
Rock Climbing Photo: View from Gap as Céüse clears up after a summer ...
View from Gap as Céüse clears up after a summer ...
Rock Climbing Photo: parking lot at the 'col de guerins'
parking lot at the 'col de guerins'
Rock Climbing Photo: the fountain near the parking lot at the 'col de g...
the fountain near the parking lot at the 'col de g...
Rock Climbing Photo: Sunset on a summer night
Sunset on a summer night
Rock Climbing Photo: Ceuse at sunrise from lac de pelleautier
Ceuse at sunrise from lac de pelleautier
Rock Climbing Photo: Ceuse massif overview
Ceuse massif overview
Rock Climbing Photo: Late afternoon light makes the grass glow golden n...
Late afternoon light makes the grass glow golden n...
Rock Climbing Photo: The popular slope-fest of Blocage Violent dances u...
The popular slope-fest of Blocage Violent dances u...

Comments on Ceuse Add Comment
Show which comments
By LeeAB Brinckerhoff
From: ABQ, NM
Jan 7, 2009
I visited with my wife (gf at the time) in the later part of October 2001 and we had great weather. Climbing in a t-shirt in the sun and a sweatshirt or jacket to belay. It rained one day while we were there and it happened to be on a rest day anyway so it was fine by me. I know that climbing can be good as early as May and even though it can be hot in summer you can always find shade though it may dictate what you can get on.

I would go back in a heartbeat and hopefully will at some point. Definitely worth a couple of weeks for the traveling climber.
By Ian G.
From: PDX, OR
Apr 20, 2009
If you stay at the gite, be sure to bring all the food you need as there isn't a real grocery store nearby (Monoprix anyone?).

Also...the approach. Stashing your gear is highly recommended. The approach to Ceuse has become the approach to which I judge all other approaches. It ain't no joke.

Ah yes, if you want to lighten your load, bring a few chlorine tabs for the waterfall water. I saw dudes just drinking it straight up, but my gf had the tabs, so...

Best sport climbing on earth...period.
By KevinM
Jun 30, 2011
Does anyone know the name of the gite at Ceuse? Thanks
By Zach Alberts
From: Gap, Hautes-Alpes, France
Feb 21, 2012
The Gite is called 'la grange aux loupes' ( ) The camping is called 'camping les guerins' (
There are two parking possibilities to approach the cliff. The first is a small, newly paved parking lot just across from the gite. This accesses the less steep, but a little bit longer approach trail. The other is just a little higher the bigger parking at the 'col des guérins'. This accesses the steeper, more technical, shorter approach. There is a fountain near the parking lot at the 'col des guérins'. This water is really cold and good and well worth filling up your water bottles here. The locals have threatened to shut off the fountain because of climbers bathing and washing their dishes in it. As part of the international climbing community, let's make a good impression and only use this water source for drinking.

Ceuse is in a protected area, so camping anywhere in the vicinity besides the campground is illigal. Sleeping in your car at the col des guérins is also 'technically illigal', although it seems to be unenforced at the moment. Also be aware that there are no bathrooms at either of the parking areas nor at the cliff, so it is best to do your buissness beforehand...

Ceuse is one of the most beautiful climbing areas in the world, please help keep it that way and enjoy!
By Kate Hanniball
May 4, 2014
Does anyone know if you need a car to get to cause if you are staying at the gite? or is it close enough to walk? or is transportation available? Tghanks!
By LeeAB Brinckerhoff
From: ABQ, NM
Aug 9, 2014
One would walk from the gite
By Zach Alberts
From: Gap, Hautes-Alpes, France
Jan 12, 2015
The new guidebook which came out last year only mentions if the routes are longer than 40m, i guess they expect everyone to have an 80m rope. Probably 90% of the routes can be done with a single 70m...but with that said, several routes (especially the new ones on the grande face) in the new guide are between 35m and 40m high and not noted in the text. So be careful, even if you have a 70m rope.
By PaulOnTheWall
From: Whitehall, PA
Feb 19, 2015
Stirs up images of Patrick Edlinger dancing on these beautiful walls.
By Tzilla Rapdrilla
Mar 11, 2017
What sort of daytime temps should one expect in early June?

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