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Routes in Secteur Demi Lune

Angel Dust S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Beauf Story S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Canabis ou nutella S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Carte Blanche S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Changement de Look S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Chant de cristal S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
El daü S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Esperanza S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Gre Blanc S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Harley Davidson S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Katina S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
L'ami caouette S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
La Javanaise S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Les dessous chics S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Les sucettes à l'anis S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Marron derriére S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Marylou S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Minette a la Plage S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Mélody Nelson S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Papyrus S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sans Peur et Sanglier S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Un panda sur la banquise S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
lapinerie S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,025 total, 14/month
Shared By: kiff on Nov 23, 2011
Admins: Euan Cameron, Luc-514

You & This Route


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Description

Starts under the low bulge located left of the big bush that separates the Demi Lune sector from the Un pont sur l'infini sector. Gymnastic climbing leads to massive holds where a rest can be had before the crux. Heel-toe cam your way through the V6ish crux and punch it through a pumpy sequence utilizing side pulls, underclings and pockets, with lots of twisting and rolling. Regain some composure on the flat jug on the arete, then cowboy up for the red point crux before the anchors that has broken many hearts. One of the most sought after 8a's at Ceuse.

Location

Second route from the extreme right of Demi Lune.

Protection

Bolts

Photos

Phil Lauffen
The Bubble
  5.13b
Phil Lauffen   The Bubble
  5.13b
7 bolts total certainly adds to the excitement. Jun 13, 2016