Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,892 total · 31/month
Shared By: LeeAB Brinckerhoff on Jan 7, 2009
Admins: Euan Cameron, Luc-514

You & This Route


7 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

When I was there a winch start past the first 2 bolts (I think it was 2) was considered legit and the route was 5.13a. The boulder problem bumps the grade up a bit even though it is not excedingly hard V6 or V7ish. Climb the long tuffa up the steep wall to its end. Continue up the overhanging face on pockets to the anchor. An extention has been done called The Black Bean and is 5.14- and a 70m pitch.

Location

A few routes right of Realization, follows the obvious 60' long tuffa up the steep wall.

Protection

Bolts and a bolted anchor.

Photos

John Martin
Kearns, UT
John Martin   Kearns, UT
This is an awesome video of the "Black Bean" done by trad. youtu.be/-TeTejh1ebs Sep 24, 2011
Zach Alberts
Gap, Hautes-Alpes, France
Zach Alberts   Gap, Hautes-Alpes, France
I believe the boulder problem at the start is chipped. The tufa climbing after the boulder problem is totally worth doing. Awesome route. Feb 19, 2012
A great route from the 3rd bolt on. A shame that the boulder problem at the start is chipped and heinous because the rest of the route is super fun. Supposedly people call it a 13a send after winching past the first 3 bolts... But that is weak sauce. I'd say the whole route is 13b/c with the bp. Amazing through the tufas and at the top. May 11, 2012
jimi thornburg
  5.13b
jimi thornburg  
  5.13b
Winch start? How is that legit? Mar 26, 2014