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Routes in Secteur Biographie

Biographie/Realization S 5.15a 9a+ 36 XI+ 37 E11 7c
J'aime Lolo S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Les Colonnettes S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Nitassinan S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Saint Georges Picos S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Sitting Bull S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Wounded Knee S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,261 total, 30/month
Shared By: LeeAB Brinckerhoff on Jan 7, 2009
Admins: Euan Cameron, Luc-514

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Description

When I was there a winch start past the first 2 bolts (I think it was 2) was considered legit and the route was 5.13a. The boulder problem bumps the grade up a bit even though it is not excedingly hard V6 or V7ish. Climb the long tuffa up the steep wall to its end. Continue up the overhanging face on pockets to the anchor. An extention has been done called The Black Bean and is 5.14- and a 70m pitch.

Location

A few routes right of Realization, follows the obvious 60' long tuffa up the steep wall.

Protection

Bolts and a bolted anchor.

Photos

jimi thornburg
  5.13b
jimi thornburg  
  5.13b
Winch start? How is that legit? Mar 26, 2014
A great route from the 3rd bolt on. A shame that the boulder problem at the start is chipped and heinous because the rest of the route is super fun. Supposedly people call it a 13a send after winching past the first 3 bolts... But that is weak sauce. I'd say the whole route is 13b/c with the bp. Amazing through the tufas and at the top. May 11, 2012
Zach Alberts
Gap, Hautes-Alpes, France
Zach Alberts   Gap, Hautes-Alpes, France
I believe the boulder problem at the start is chipped. The tufa climbing after the boulder problem is totally worth doing. Awesome route. Feb 19, 2012
John Martin
Kearns, UT
John Martin   Kearns, UT
This is an awesome video of the "Black Bean" done by trad. youtu.be/-TeTejh1ebs Sep 24, 2011