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Routes in Secteur Berlin

Berlin S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Blocage Violent S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Casse-noisette S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Couleur du Vent S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Dolce vita S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Galaxy S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
L'errance d'une passion S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
La Petite Illusion S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Le bleusard pressé S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Makach Walou S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Petit Tom S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Queue de rat S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
San John's Pecos S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Patrick E.?
Page Views: 1,209 total, 11/month
Shared By: LeeAB Brinckerhoff on Jan 7, 2009
Admins: Euan Cameron, Luc-514

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Description

Move up onto the tuffa and struggle up this. Think that it must be over because of how hard this was. Promptly be disapointed because the headwall is just as hard as the tuffa. A sandbag at the grade but even more so when you find out that it was originally graded 5.11c.

Location

Look for the single 30' tall tuffa near the middle of the wall, to the right of the steeper stuff and left of the easy routes.

Protection

Bolts and a bolted anchor.

Photos

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Zach Alberts
Gap, Hautes-Alpes, France
 
Zach Alberts   Gap, Hautes-Alpes, France
 
There is now an extension of this route which adds a half star in my book. Continue past the first set of anchors past 4 or 5 more bolts of 11b or 11c face climbing to a fixed anchor. YOU NEED an 80m rope to reach the ground from the second set of anchors. I'd bring about 16 quickdraws. Feb 19, 2012