Type: Trad, 90 ft (27 m)
GPS: 51.6607, -2.66589
FA: Peacock and Berry '78
Page Views: 651 total · 6/month
Shared By: Sean M on Sep 25, 2016
Admins: Chris Owen, Euan Cameron, Jack Copland

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Description Suggest change

Devious! Who thought J Tree grades would make their way to the UK?

Pull strenuously up a slick groove/ right facing corner and pass a tree on its right side (original route) or left side (more logical IMO). Above the tree climb up 3 m and traverse left 3 m, then ascend a tricky spot of face climbing up and right a further 3 m. Sort some good pro in a finger-size slot to the right, then make an insecure mantle onto a tiny ledge. Past this crux climb more easily up and right in a groove to finish.

Location Suggest change

From the quarry, pass Butterfly on the approach trail and continue on the highest path at the base of cliff. Pass a wide open area (large enough for a tent, but not to be used for this purpose) and go up a short, steep rise. The climb starts up the steep grove/corner at the top of the rise.

Protection Suggest change

standard nuts and cams; a slung tree and small hex came in handy.

Photos

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