All Locations > California > Joshua Tree NP > Hidden Valley Area > Real Hidden Valley > Real Hidden Val… > Houser Buttress… > Houser Gully

All Booked Up

Name: All Booked Up
Rating: 2.6

5.7 YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British

Routes in Houser Gully

L › R R › L A › Z

	Albatross, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	All Booked Up T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Give the People What They Want T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Sunday Papers T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Thunderhead T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
	Todd's Hardcover TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

Order Wrong? Sort Routes

Type:	Trad, 45 ft (14 m)
GPS:	34.01126, -116.17114
FA:	Hank Levine & Dag Kolsrud 1978
Page Views:	2,868 total · 12/month
Shared By:	Will S on Apr 9, 2007
Admins:	Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes Page Updates (admin only)

You & This Route

17 Opinions

Your To-Do List: ·

Your Star Rating:
Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:
-none- Change

Your Ticks:Add New Tick

-none-

Explore this route in 3D

Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures Details Details

The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…

Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.

The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned

For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…

Description

This very nice looking crack in a shallow right facing corner quickly opens up from fingers in pods to a perfect handcrack to the top. The approach has to be the only reason this gets no stars in the guides. If this were in the campground it would get done 10x per day. While short, the approach is tricky. Chimney moves can help down low where the corner is deeper and almost trough-like.

Location

Getting to this route may be the true crux. You can approach from the Houser Buttress or from Solosby. Facing Houser Buttress, there is a boulder filled gully system to the right of Dodo's Delight, about 150' right of Houser Buttress itself. Scramble, tunnel, and boulder hop up this gully. As it narrows into a corridor, keep your eye on the left side (north facing walls) looking for a face with two distinct crack lines about 50' apart. Midway between them is a fingercrack/seam that ends about 25' shy of the top. The route is an obvious, gorgeous looking handcrack that starts as small pods in the back of a trough and quickly changes to perfect hands in a shallow/narrowing right facing corner.

Another way to approach is from Solosby Wall. This gully system is almost directly behind Solosby. Facing Latin Swing, walk out the left end of the corridor and up onto the flat area just after the corridor ends. Scramble down and left on the path of least resistance (somewhat tricky). The route is clearly visible early in the descent as a straight-up handcrack.