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All Booked Up
Trad, 45 ft,
Avg: 2.5 from 13
FA: Hank Levine & Dag Kolsrud 1978
> Joshua Tree NP
> Real Hidden Valley
> Real Hidden Val…
> Houser Buttress…
> Houser Gully
This very nice looking crack in a shallow right facing corner quickly opens up from fingers in pods to a perfect handcrack to the top. The approach has to be the only reason this gets no stars in the guides. If this were in the campground it would get done 10x per day. While short, the approach is tricky. Chimney moves can help down low where the corner is deeper and almost trough-like.
Getting to this route may be the true crux. You can approach from the Houser Buttress or from Solosby. Facing Houser Buttress, there is a boulder filled gully system to the right of Dodo's Delight, about 150' right of Houser Buttress itself. Scramble, tunnel, and boulder hop up this gully. As it narrows into a corridor, keep your eye on the left side (north facing walls) looking for a face with two distinct crack lines about 50' apart. Midway between them is a fingercrack/seam that ends about 25' shy of the top. The route is an obvious, gorgeous looking handcrack that starts as small pods in the back of a trough and quickly changes to perfect hands in a shallow/narrowing right facing corner.
Another way to approach is from Solosby Wall. This gully system is almost directly behind Solosby. Facing Latin Swing, walk out the left end of the corridor and up onto the flat area just after the corridor ends. Scramble down and left on the path of least resistance (somewhat tricky). The route is clearly visible early in the descent as a straight-up handcrack.