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California
> Joshua Tree NP
> Central Joshua…
> Echo Rock Area
> Echo Cove
> Echo Cove - E Side
Effigy Too
5.10a/b YDS 6a+ French 19 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British R
Avg: 2.5 from 122
votes
Routes in Echo Cove - East Side
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Archie TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Ashtray, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Crossroads T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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D.E. Chimney, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Effigy Too T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b R |
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Familial Feud TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Gondolier T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Halfway to Paradise T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Hatfield Arete T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Hatfields and McCoys T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Inhaler S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Jughead T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Little Fireman T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Mis-Matched TR 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Misfits T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Nit T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Nitwit T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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No Mistake or Big Pancake T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Real McCoy, The TR 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Snatch, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Solo Dog T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Teething Toy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Wheezer TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Wit T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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| Type: | Trad, 40 ft (12 m) |
| GPS: | 34.02521, -116.15706 |
| FA: | Matt Cox and Dave Evans, 1975 |
| Page Views: | 4,784 total · 17/month |
| Shared By: | Mike Morley on Jun 25, 2002 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Details
The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
Effigy Too is located just left of the bolted Crossroads. The upper crack of this climb is arguably the most obvious feature on the wall.
Originally rated 5.9+, holds have broken on the beginning portion of the climb, making the route much harder than it was initially.
The crux is the first 15 feet of climbing and the climbing is harder than it first appears. A fall just before you snag the jug would likely result in a groundfall, hence the R rating. The difficulty eases up substantially once you reach the vertical hand crack.
Descent: Climb down the chimney to the south as for Bacon Flake and Out on a Limb.
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