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Routes in Echo Cove - East Side

Ashtray, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Crossroads T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Effigy Too T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Familial Feud TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Halfway to Paradise T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13
Hatfield Arete T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Hatfields and McCoys T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Inhaler S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Jughead T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Little Fireman T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Mis-Matched TR 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Misfits T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Nit T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Nitwit T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
No Mistake or Big Pancake T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Real McCoy, The TR 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Snatch, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Solo Dog T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Teething Toy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wheezer TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wit T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Ryan Kelly, T. Murphy, Tucker Tech, Marcella, and T. Sartin
Page Views: 1,155 total, 13/month
Shared By: Murf on Nov 8, 2010
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This route is actually a variation to The Real McCoy, and a great addition to the face. Start up the off hands crack on the far left side of the face to the large ledge. Using good holds, lean out and clip the first bolt. A couple of options lead to a stance where gear is found. Clean rock leads past two more bolts to the crux. Climbing directly on the arete keeps the grade in check. Staying to the right of the last bolt is harder, but a bit contrived. Much easier climbing leads to the top.

Location

This route starts on the off hands crack on the left side of the formation (same as the Hatfield Arete).

Protection

3 bolts, .5,#3, #4 Camalot, small nuts and a selection of small cams for the route. Hand size for the anchor.

Photos

Randy
 
Randy  
 
Nice fun route and a worthy addition to the face. Maybe 3 of 5 stars. May 2, 2011
caughtinside
Oakland CA
 
caughtinside   Oakland CA
 
4 star instant classic! Nov 8, 2010