Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Echo Cove - East Side

Ashtray, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Crossroads T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Effigy Too T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Familial Feud TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Halfway to Paradise T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13
Hatfield Arete T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Hatfields and McCoys T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Inhaler S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Jughead T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Little Fireman T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Mis-Matched TR 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Misfits T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Nit T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Nitwit T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
No Mistake or Big Pancake T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Real McCoy, The TR 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Snatch, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Solo Dog T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Teething Toy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wheezer TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wit T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Paul Borne & Tracy Dorton
Page Views: 2,122 total, 14/month
Shared By: Randy on Dec 31, 2004
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


21 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

This excellent route lies about 50 feet uphill and right of Effigy Too. Start left and below a large boulder. [Beginning off the boulder and traversing left avoids the first 15+ feet of thin crack]. Up a very thin crack then into a left leaning corner (1st bolt). Continue up until established on face above corner (11a); another bolt protects moves to a horizontal. Head right around the corner then up face past the 3rd and last bolt (10b/c).

Lots of varied climbing and cool moves. Descend left, then down chimney (behind Effigy Too & Out On A Limb).

Protection

Very small nuts and cams for thin crack with gear in the .5 to 1 inch range. Runners helpful on gear in horizontal above 2nd bolt. A couple 2-2.5 inch pieces are needed if the bolt anchors are missing. Currently two bolt anchor (and should stay that way).

Photos

Guy Keesee
Moorpark, CA
Guy Keesee   Moorpark, CA
I think this is one of the better 11s in the park. I give it a ton of stars.

I have always used double ropes on this one. Mar 9, 2017
dnaiscool  
 
"Pinky" Paul told me about his new route, and I jumped on it ASAP. At the time, he gave it .11b, and I thought it was spot on...unless you compare it to the Left Ski Track...anyway, it is one of the best one pitch outings in the park, and I give it all the stars. If you are a 5.11 climber, then tick this one for sure!!...Oh...you gotta do the climb from the bottom for full effect...just sayin'... Mar 29, 2015
pkeds
Redondo Beach, CA
  5.11b
pkeds   Redondo Beach, CA
  5.11b
Ur cheating yourself if u skip the initial 15 feet. I felt it was a bit harder than 11a oh well Mar 13, 2015
Will S
Joshua Tree
 
Will S   Joshua Tree
 
Bolted anchor is in place as of 11/29/08. Very cool climbing, technical rather than pumpy or hard pulling. Topout is "interesting" to say the least. Dec 1, 2008
Kris Spevak  
 
I loved this route, it's got a little bit of everything. Really fun-4 stars for sure. Nov 19, 2007
I honestly think this route deserves more than 2 stars. It was a good find by Paul and has some creative climbing with a quite interesting finish. Some good climbers have fallen off the crux getting over the bulge too. Nov 28, 2006
Randy
 
Randy  
 
Maybe my description was not very clear. The route heads straight up the thin crack, but it is possible to avoid it (some people do) by traversing in left from atop the boulder. The route is definitely better if done from the ground, up the thin crack. Jan 13, 2004
Murf
  5.11a
Murf  
  5.11a
Skip the thin crack?!? Jan 13, 2004