Effigy Too

Amazing start. Bouldery but not too difficult. We found you can protect the crux pretty well with a #2 stopper. Once you get to the prominent crack feature, its just fun cruisin' from there. Apr 23, 2006

Good route, definitley worth doing and not even close to 10b - jugs and decent feet means any 10 climber will breeze throught the lower section. Nov 1, 2006

I definately agree with the rating as the first moves are quite bouldery. Above the difficulty eases quite a bit, but it still keeps your attention. Apr 7, 2008

As mentioned above, a small stopper can be placed high from the ground to protect the opening moves (I clipped mine with a single 'biner). Be aware that you are in groundfall territory before you get your next piece, though the hard climbing is long over. Above this, the rest of the route is 5.8 max. No really small stuff is needed. Nov 14, 2011

I always thought the start was a bit scary and the route stouter than its original 5.9+ rating Mar 21, 2012

vimeo.com/65868003 Jun 4, 2013

Start is still pretty hard and in my present condition I'm rating this thing 5.6 V9.

To set an anchor, have a couple of cams in the 2" to 3" range and a few big nuts. A long extendo (20ft) will help you out with getting the anchor over the lip for easy TR action. Oct 26, 2013

As of December 15 2013 - someone broke the key hold (little triangular hold) which was crucial for the opening sequence of moves. Dec 17, 2013

Thanks for posting the video. The hold missing is the one Dave's left foot is on. It had been a few years since I had been on it. So I climbed this on Friday and thought 'Wow, what am I missing to make it so much harder'. Now I know. I will not say how much harder it is, just that it makes this route not be a gimme any more. Oct 26, 2014

As others have pointed out you can protect the start with a stopper or cam. I was able to place a blue Alien in same spot you'd place a stopper. Once above that you can get another cam to protect the next move if you so choose. Mar 13, 2017