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Routes in Echo Cove - East Side

Ashtray, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Crossroads T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Effigy Too T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Familial Feud TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Halfway to Paradise T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13
Hatfield Arete T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Hatfields and McCoys T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Inhaler S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Jughead T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Little Fireman T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Mis-Matched TR 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Misfits T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Nit T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Nitwit T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
No Mistake or Big Pancake T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Real McCoy, The TR 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Snatch, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Solo Dog T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Teething Toy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wheezer TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wit T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: Matt Cox and Dave Evans, 1975
Page Views: 2,634 total, 14/month
Shared By: M. Morley on Jun 25, 2002
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Effigy Too is located just left of the bolted Crossroads. The crux is encountered in the first 15' of climbing and protection is a little bit tricky. The difficulty eases up substantially (5.8ish) after that. Gear belay.

Descent: walk off down chimney to the south.

This would be a 3-star route if it were a bit longer.

Protection

Pro to 2 inches, TCUs to protect the crux off the deck.

Photos

Ryan Bracci
San Juan Capistrano, CA
  5.10a
Ryan Bracci   San Juan Capistrano, CA
  5.10a
As others have pointed out you can protect the start with a stopper or cam. I was able to place a blue Alien in same spot you'd place a stopper. Once above that you can get another cam to protect the next move if you so choose. Mar 13, 2017
Joe Brophy
San Diego
Joe Brophy   San Diego
Thanks for posting the video. The hold missing is the one Dave's left foot is on. It had been a few years since I had been on it. So I climbed this on Friday and thought 'Wow, what am I missing to make it so much harder'. Now I know. I will not say how much harder it is, just that it makes this route not be a gimme any more. Oct 26, 2014
Vitaliy
  5.10a
Vitaliy  
  5.10a
As of December 15 2013 - someone broke the key hold (little triangular hold) which was crucial for the opening sequence of moves. Dec 17, 2013
Russ Walling
www.FishProducts.com
 
Russ Walling   www.FishProducts.com
 
Start is still pretty hard and in my present condition I'm rating this thing 5.6 V9.

To set an anchor, have a couple of cams in the 2" to 3" range and a few big nuts. A long extendo (20ft) will help you out with getting the anchor over the lip for easy TR action. Oct 26, 2013
Vitaliy
  5.10a
Vitaliy  
  5.10a
vimeo.com/65868003 Jun 4, 2013
Tim Wolfe
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10a/b
Tim Wolfe   Salt Lake City, UT  
  5.10a/b
I always thought the start was a bit scary and the route stouter than its original 5.9+ rating Mar 21, 2012
Richard Shore
  5.10-
Richard Shore  
  5.10-
As mentioned above, a small stopper can be placed high from the ground to protect the opening moves (I clipped mine with a single 'biner). Be aware that you are in groundfall territory before you get your next piece, though the hard climbing is long over. Above this, the rest of the route is 5.8 max. No really small stuff is needed. Nov 14, 2011
DJ Reyes
Northern Nevada
 
DJ Reyes   Northern Nevada
 
I definately agree with the rating as the first moves are quite bouldery. Above the difficulty eases quite a bit, but it still keeps your attention. Apr 7, 2008
Edward Jenner
  5.9+
Edward Jenner  
  5.9+
Good route, definitley worth doing and not even close to 10b - jugs and decent feet means any 10 climber will breeze throught the lower section. Nov 1, 2006
Adam Catalano
Albany, New York
 
Adam Catalano   Albany, New York
 
Amazing start. Bouldery but not too difficult. We found you can protect the crux pretty well with a #2 stopper. Once you get to the prominent crack feature, its just fun cruisin' from there. Apr 23, 2006