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Routes in Echo Cove - East Side

Ashtray, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Crossroads T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Effigy Too T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Familial Feud TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Halfway to Paradise T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13
Hatfield Arete T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Hatfields and McCoys T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Inhaler S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Jughead T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Little Fireman T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Mis-Matched TR 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Misfits T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Nit T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Nitwit T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
No Mistake or Big Pancake T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Real McCoy, The TR 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Snatch, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Solo Dog T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Teething Toy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wheezer TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wit T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: Herb Laeger, Mike Waugh, Jan McCollum & Dennis Knuckles, February 1978
Page Views: 1,214 total, 6/month
Shared By: C Miller on Dec 31, 2001
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Starting 15' down and left from Effigy Too is this engaging mixed route.

A single bolt 15' up marks this route, which wanders upward past the bolt and several horizontals to the top. The pro is decent as the crux is just above the bolt and the climbing above although sporty is easier.

If not up to leading this route it is easily toproped from the anchor for Effigy Too.

Protection

Bolt (3/8") and small to medium cams. Gear belay and walk off climber's left (down a chimney/gully).

Photos

Russ Walling
www.FishProducts.com
  5.10b PG13
Russ Walling   www.FishProducts.com
  5.10b PG13
From the description: If not up to leading this route it is easily toproped from the anchor for Effigy Too.

Effigy Too is way over to the right, and a separate anchor for HP must be set. It would be suicide to use the Effigy Too anchor location to toprope this route.

As for an anchor, use some nuts and a small cam or two under the big summit plate. A long extendo runner is also needed. If you have a huge extendo, you can tie off the entire summit cap for an anchor. Oct 26, 2013
Fat Dad
Los Angeles, CA
 
Fat Dad   Los Angeles, CA
 
I've done this a few times over the years and it's always felt hard for a .10a, even on TR. Feb 5, 2009
Will S
Joshua Tree
  5.10a PG13
Will S   Joshua Tree
  5.10a PG13
Reachy. If you're tall enough, it's a wandering jug fest on horizontals, if you can't reach between them it may feel harder than rated. Nov 30, 2008
Kris Spevak  
 
I agree - 10B. Nov 19, 2007
Woody Stark  
 
It seems 5.10B/C to me. Jun 8, 2004
Randy
  5.10a
Randy  
  5.10a
The route is a bit stiff for 10a (I gave it a split 10a/b) rating in the new guide, but hardly any harder. As a lead it gets an R rating, but as Murf pointed out, that doesn't change the difficulty of the moves. Apr 19, 2004
Murf
  5.10a
Murf  
  5.10a
Unfortunately you don't get to increase the difficulty rating for "mental difficulty". Apr 19, 2004
Scotty Nelson
Boulder
5.10c
Scotty Nelson   Boulder
5.10c
Pretty tough for 10a? Anyone else done this? Apr 19, 2004