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May 24, 2007
Last Visit: May 6, 2024
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Likes Trad, Gym
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Ice WI1 WI4
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May 6, 2024
We used to TR this in the late '80s. I wonder if today's rubber is enough to compensate for the broken holds. View Comment

Forum Messages View All 34

Gear > Climbing Gear Discussion
Reply: 6th time in 3 years to send items back to Arcteryx…
Oct 31, 2019 Reviving an old thread to say I've had the same experience. I bought an Arcteryx gore tex jacket in the late 1990s; around 10 years later the urethane zippers started to delami… View Message
General > Trad Climbing
Reply: ACR Anchor Method?
Feb 19, 2017 I've seen a lot of different test results for multipiece fixed anchors, and see how unequal arm lengths reduce equalization. Do Beverley's tests come to different conclusions?… View Message
General > Trad Climbing
Reply: ACR Anchor Method?
Feb 17, 2017 Have any of the tests of sliding vs. non-sliding systems looked purely at equalization based on unequal arm lengths? Some of the early tests that got people nervous about t… View Message
General > Trad Climbing
Reply: ACR Anchor Method?
Feb 10, 2017 One reason I like using 7mm nylon for rigging anchors is its knotted strength. When we first started experimenting with the ACR we were concerned about the extension limiting k… View Message
General > Trad Climbing
Reply: ACR Anchor Method?
Feb 9, 2017 I'm not attacking you, Jim, I'm asking the questions anyone would ask when thoroughly vetting an experiment. If I had a peer-reviewed paper in front of me, these are questions… View Message
General > Trad Climbing
Reply: ACR Anchor Method?
Feb 9, 2017 You don't test an anchor like that; you sacrifice a virgin or large animal to it and beg for its mercy. View Message

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