Type: Sport, 80 ft (24 m)
GPS: 44.00669, -71.23158
FA: Jerry Handren
Page Views: 74 total · 37/month
Shared By: Jon Nicolodi on Apr 28, 2026
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

Amazing climbing on the steep panel between tears in the rain and hyperspace. Crank through a few bolts of powerful moves down low and continue to revel in how pumped you can get on such large holds as you continue upwards, with a final sting in the tail that kept me in doubt til the end. The quality of climbing, positioning, approach shenanigans, and the feeling of a route scarcely-traveled make this a backwoods classic.

Goes into the shade before everything else. The start can be a little manky - it may look unclimbable from the ground, but it'll look better up close, and both the hand and footholds are all big enough that you'll be able to deal with a little bit of dampness.

Location Suggest change

On the step panel right of tears in the rain, starting on a ledge about 30 feet off the ground. 

A couple of possible options to get to the start:

1. Start at a large oak far right of the base of the climb, and climb 4th/low 5th up and left to gain the ledge, then traverse over to the base. This is relatively straightforward if dirty and chossy. The real problem is that you have to belly crawl through poison ivy in the last few feet, at the narrowest part of the ledge. I fortunately had a partner who couldn't identify poison ivy, crawled through, then put me on belay when I refused so I could do a wet step-down to a hard-to-see (from the ground) two bolt anchor in a little notch, then easily get to the base. Perhaps with some gear you could build a little anchor on the ledge to do a mini-pitch around it.

2. Lead up a dirty crack directly beneath the climb to a hard-to-see two bolt anchor just beneath the climb. I've never done this, but you'd avoid the poison ivy belly crawl.

Bring what you need to rappel from the two-bolt anchor.

Protection Suggest change

bolts - well bolted, recently replaced

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