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Unnecessary Splits
5.7 YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British
Avg: 3.5 from 6
votes
Routes in Upper Pratt
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3 Surgeries, 2 Years, 1 Bolt S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Andrew's Boulder Problem V-easy 3 |
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Another Cerebral Dihedral T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Another Vicious Meniscus S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Baby on Board T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Blue Rose, The S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Bowser's Challenge S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Dinky Slab Direct S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Dr.Mario S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Forget Me Knot S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Hiding From the Truth T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Learner's Permit S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Man From Nantucket, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Mouth of Truth, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Necessary But Not Sufficient S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Poetry in Motion (linkup) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Race is On, The S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Ribald Limerick T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Student Driver T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Tulpa S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Unnecessary Splits T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
| Unsorted Routes: | |
| Type: | Trad, 55 ft (17 m) |
| GPS: | 47.54062, -121.58402 |
| FA: | Lyd (w Kevin) |
| Page Views: | 168 total · 77/month |
| Shared By: | Chosslord Supreme on Jan 17, 2026 |
| Admins: | Jon Nelson, Zachary Winters, Mitchell McAuslan |
Description
Consistent "granite 5.7" moves up this fun moderate trad climb.
It has two distinct sections, technical-style followed by layback slab, and separated by a slabby ledge. Clip two bolts (the lower bolt of 3-2-1 can also be clipped if you want it, if so I'd recommend a double sling extension), then follow the corner plugging gear as you go. Some sneaky cams and then a medium nut (grey offset is sinker, double length sling nice) will get you to the slabby ledge. Scoot left to enter the undercling where it's low (tall folks can reach from the slab ledge, shorties will have to pick a good foot and step up to plug this cam) and make sure to double extend this cam. Cruise up the corner system then make a move or two to the right to clip the anchors (shared with 3-2-1).
Some loose rocks firmly wedged in the crack were split so they could be removed, which probably wasnt necessary but helps the route feel cleaner. Splitting your legs into a stem might help you through the cruxes, maybe.
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