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Ribald Limerick
5.10+ YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 20 ZA E3 5b British
Avg: 3.3 from 4
votes
Routes in Upper Pratt
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Andrew's Boulder Problem V-easy 3 |
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Another Cerebral Dihedral T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Another Vicious Meniscus S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Closed Headwall Projects S 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a |
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Man From Nantucket, The S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Mouth of Truth, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Necessary But Not Sufficient S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Poetry in Motion (linkup) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Ribald Limerick T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Shawn's Closed Route S 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a |
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Will's Closed Crack T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a |
| Unsorted Routes: | |
| Type: | Trad, 120 ft (36 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Andrew Peterson, Will Pyrak. Spring 2024. |
| Page Views: | 28 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | Andrew P on Jun 30, 2024 |
| Admins: | Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters, Mitchell McAuslan |
Description
This is an alternate second pitch to the Man From Nantucket. It is well worth staying up here and doing both options. This could also be climbed in one long pitch from the ground - but rope drag is trickier to manage on this one so I like to split it up.
Pitch 1: Climb the first pitch of the Man From Nantucket. 70', 10+, bolts.
Pitch 2: Start up the 2nd pitch of the Man From Nantucket, clipping the first bolt after the anchor and then breaking left into a bouldery crack/seam that leads to a ledge and a lone bolt above. A fun sequence leads past the bolt to some more gear protected climbing above. Top out to a great stance. 50', 10+, gear + bolts.
With a 60 meter rope, you will need to do two rappels to reach the ground. With a 70 meter rope, you can reach the ground from the top anchor - but knot the ends of your rope and be careful!
Protection
Single set cams from micro to BD#.75 and some small nuts is plenty (I like placing the largest DMM brass offset, but you could get by with just microcams.) Bring extra finger size cams if you want more options. There's an optional 4” cam placement at the top, but you can get smaller gear nearby to avoid hauling up the #4.
If you didn't bring gear up The Man From Nantucket, it would be pretty straightforward to traverse over to these anchors (on belay) from the top of that route and set up a TR.
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