All Locations > Washington > Central-W Casca… > N Bend & Vicinity > Exit 34; Middle… > Bessemer Mountain > S Bessemer Creek > Upper Pratt

The Man From Nantucket

Name: The Man From Nantucket
Rating: 3.9

5.10+ YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 20 ZA E3 5b British

Routes in Upper Pratt

L › R R › L A › Z

	Andrew's Boulder Problem V-easy 3
	Another Cerebral Dihedral T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Another Vicious Meniscus S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Closed Headwall Projects S 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a
	Man From Nantucket, The S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Mouth of Truth, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Necessary But Not Sufficient S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Poetry in Motion (linkup) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Ribald Limerick T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Shawn's Closed Route S 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a
	Will's Closed Crack T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a
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Type:	Sport, 120 ft (36 m), 2 pitches
FA:	Andrew Peterson, Will Pyrak. Spring 2024.
Page Views:	109 total · 32/month
Shared By:	Andrew P on Jun 30, 2024
Admins:	Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters, Mitchell McAuslan Page Updates (admin only)

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Description

A great route that climbs the full length of the cliff. Some may find it nice to climb it in two pitches so that you have your belayer in sight and less rope drag for the upper face. It can also be linked into one fantastic, long pitch.

Pitch 1: Climb up jugs to a sloping ledge, and from here head up the obvious arete. Use some hidden holds near the start of the arete to get yourself over onto the left side, do a few more moves and clip a bolt on that side, and then come back to the right side for the crux sequence. This leads to an optional belay at a small stance at the base of the headwall. 70', 10+, 8 bolts to two bolt anchor.

Pitch 2: Climb the delightful face above which has some interesting features and unique holds, contains a couple of cruxes, and requires your typical granite trickery. Top out on a nice perch at the top of the cliff. 50', 10+, 7 bolts to two bolt anchor.

With a 60 meter rope, you will need to do two rappels to reach the ground. With a 70 meter rope, you can reach the ground from the top anchor - but knot the ends of your rope and be careful!

Location

This climbs the obvious arete on the left side of the crag, just to the left of the large overhang/roof in the middle of the cliff.

Protection

15 draws if linking or 8 if not, plus whatever you need for anchors. You may want alpine or long draws for a couple bolts on P1 to help the rope/carabiner lay nicer on the rock. If linking pitches you will want a couple more long draws to help manage rope drag.