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Dr.Mario
5.12 YDS 7b+ French 27 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 26 ZA E6 6b British
Avg: 4 from 5
votes
Routes in Upper Pratt
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3 Surgeries, 2 Years, 1 Bolt S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Andrew's Boulder Problem V-easy 3 |
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Another Cerebral Dihedral T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Another Vicious Meniscus S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Baby on Board T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Blue Rose, The S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Dinky Slab Direct S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Dr.Mario S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Forget Me Knot S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Hiding From the Truth T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Learner's Permit S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Man From Nantucket, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Mouth of Truth, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Necessary But Not Sufficient S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Poetry in Motion (linkup) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Race is On, The S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Ribald Limerick T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Student Driver T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Tulpa S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Unnecessary Splits T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
| Unsorted Routes: | |
| Type: | Sport, 105 ft (32 m) |
| GPS: | 47.54062, -121.58402 |
| FA: | Aaron Wait - equipped with help from Andrew P (aka Dr.Mario) |
| Page Views: | 282 total · 20/month |
| Shared By: | Aaron Wait on Dec 6, 2024 · Updates |
| Admins: | Jon Nelson, Zachary Winters, Mitchell McAuslan |
Description
Awesome line tackles an obvious weakness through the gently overhanging headwall.
There is a little bit of faffing to be done getting to the headwall. Option 1 - (5.6, best when things are a bit damp, less drag if you back clean, done on the FA). Start by climbing to the same first bolt as "Man From Nantucket", pull over on to the slab and move right till you reach a 2 bolt anchor. Make sure you back-clean every single bolt (easily) until the 2 bolt anchor. Leave an extended draw there and head up to the headwall (extending as you go). Option 2 - (5.10, more interesting, harder to back clean but only moderate drag) climb a steeper line of bolts ~30ft to the right of Nantucket start. At the lip of the lower slab trend left a bit then up to the two bolt anchor and the headwall beyond.
Once at the headwall the real challenge begins. I won't spoil it except to say there are two distinct cruxes and some cool holds. Eventually you'll find yourself at the top of the headwall in a good stance. There is also a bit of a slab crux after this stance, would suck to blow it!
Location
Middle line going through the obvious headwall just left of the black streak. There is a line of bolts through a prominent roof, Dr.Mario is the bolt line one to the right of that, tackling shallow bulges and a discontinuous shallow right facing corners,, eventually exiting left on to the slab above.
2 Comments