Luderbuam
5.10d YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 21 ZA E3 5b British
| Type: | Trad, 1000 ft (303 m), 7 pitches |
| GPS: | -41.4364, -72.1082 |
| FA: | René Guhland, Stefan Leitner. Feb 2011 |
| Page Views: | 40 total · 17/month |
| Shared By: | Yann Gudefin on Jan 14, 2026 |
| Admins: | Eric Och, Alex R, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra |
Description
An interesting route, which could be just as good as its neighbor with a bit more traffic. Original given grade are suspects, feel harder.
P1: Rampe and corner, move right to a bolted belay on ledge. Better than it look. 5.10
P2: Finger crack left facing corner, thin at the end, move left (tricky) to a bolted belay. 5.10+
P3: 2 options
(1) Complet if you climb it. Looks slabby.
(2) Straight up the belay to find a bolt, enter the left facing corner to the roof. Here is sometimes/often wet. Stem the wet section, good finger crack stay dry in the roof, and travers left with good hand jam and good protections, pass the roof. Continue in the chimney like and easy terrain to a bolted belay on a big rock on left. 5.11- (?)
P4: travers right under threes to the big ledge, cross it to a bolted belay straight up. 5.8
P5: start in the big corner to an horizontal flake, travers and find bolted belay behind three. 5.9
P6: use the diedral straight up, few meters of chimney (bolt) and aukward exit right when you think it's the good moment. Find thin flake with pocket on your right, climb it to the bolted belay. 5.10+
P7: mossy crack in the corner the then left to the bolted station. 5.10-
Rap the route :
P7 - P6
P6 - ledge
Crossing ledge to the Three rap station
Rap to a bolted station on the arete between No Hay Hoyes and Luderbuam.
Last 60m rappel to the ground. You can split rappel at P1 if needed



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