In a Jam

This is a fun crack that can be an alternative second pitch to Flake n' Bake. It has been mentioned elsewhere in the comments for this area, but it is enjoyable enough to deserve its own page.

Starting from the first pitch anchor for Flake n' Bake, there are two ways to approach it. 

1. One way is to climb the first half of the second pitch of Flake n' Bake before traversing left across the slab to the crack.

2. Another alternative is to move directly left across the slab past a bush into a bushy gully. There's a low angle 5.4 dihedral with a thin crack that you can climb up.

The first way is cleaner, but the second way is more interesting. The second way could be cleaned up a bit with some trimming and clearing the small crack of dirt. As of now, a large bush 'guards' the first moves to establish yourself in the main crack with either approach.

The main crack is super enjoyable, if only too short (just how it goes in the Sandias). While the Lower Sandia's Guide calls it 5.7, that is probably only the case if you stay entirely within the crack. There's abundant hands and feet besides the crack that would make it much easier.

You'll want to set the belay just after the crack in one of several possible cracks. A 4th class scramble gets you to the top rap anchor at the top of Flake n' Bake. You might want to consider belaying a less confident climber down to the anchor.

Start from the anchors at the top of Flake n' Bake's first pitch.

Standard rack. Singles in C4 #0.75-3 would probably be sufficient to protect the crack.