Type: Trad, Alpine, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 6,802 total · 42/month
Shared By: Anthony Stout on Mar 20, 2007 with improvements by Bill Lawry
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


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Access Issue: COVID-19 New Mexico State Requirements Details

Description

Nice, mellow, south facing route (gets plenty of sun in winter) to take aspiring leaders or new climbers on. Looking up you'll see two obvious wavy cracks heading up to a roof. If you have more time to kill you can even set up a top rope and choose one of the four variations of the first pitch (crack 1, crack 2, slab only, or left facing dihedral crack.)

Pitch 1 (5.5)Pick either crack and climb up through the roof and to the bolt anchors.

Pitch 2 (5.4)Traverse to the right and follow the crack to a two bolt belay.  NOTE: This belay used to consist of an ugly swath of slings stuck tight in a pinched crack. Thankfully, those slings have been replaced by a nice set of bolts.

Descent: One sixty meter rope is fine for the rappel. Watch the ends when coming down the first pitch, it's close.  See below for some  important clarification.

If you want to rap all the way to the bolts at the beginning of the described P1, a 60m will NOT make it. But rapping on a 60m rope does get one to terrain that can then be down climbed to the bolts or to the beginning of the walk off from that point.There are two places to end your rappel on a 60m rope.1) A 60m rope will easily reach the low-angle bottom of the primary dihedral of the area. From an easy stance just above some vegetation, pull the rope and scramble off skier's left via some unexposed 3rd or 4th class moves.2) A 60m rope can often barely reach another ~5 meters to a flat spot that is climber's right of the start of the smaller right-facing dihedral one climbs at the start of P1. Rope ends must be even and it is possible some "60m" ropes will not reach this far.

Location

See directions in area description.

Protection

Depends on your comfort level. For comfortable trad leaders a single set of cams is fine. If you prefer a bit more take a set of nuts plus the single set of cams.

Photos