Archie

This is described in the Lower Sandia's (Loucks) Guide, and it is another option for approaching the belay ledge for Flake n' Bake from the bottom of the canyon. As you're hiking up the approach trail to the first point at which you can see Flake n' Bake, you can observe a large arch about 150 or so feet up after relatively low angle slab. That's where you're aiming to end the first pitch. The second pitch gets you to the ledge for Flake n' Bake.

Pitch 1: Begin climbing once the main trail along the canyon hugs the slab on the north side for the first time. Relatively easy moves gets you up past the bushy slab, eventually reaching a relatively clean low angle slab directly below the arch. Protection can be found on the climber's right on the bushy slab. The higher clean slab is much tougher to protect, with some very small gear to be found behind flakes and in thin cracks. Many will not feel the need to protect it, as it is maybe 5.2 at most and can probably be walked up. The large crack below the arch will take C4 #1-3s for an anchor at the highest point, which has a decent belay stance. The guide gives this pitch an R rating, but it is probably more protectable with modern microcrams and ball nuts.

Pitch 2: If you set the anchor at the high point, you'll want to step left a few feet before pulling an easy roof (5.3 crux) to get gear into the large arching dihedral. Take the dihedral to its end, then traverse directly climber's right towards the Flake n' Bake ledge. The traverse is bushy and awkward.

Decent: You can rappel from the anchor at the Flake n' Bake ledge or walk off down the regular trail.

Take the approach trail towards Flake n' Bake. Begin climbing at the point that the trail hugs the northern slab for the first time. There's a large flat boulder right before that point where you can organize gear.

Light Sandia rack. Small gear (microcams and ball nuts) if you feel the need to protect the 5.2 slab. A 60m will be sufficient.