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Livestock Mutilation
5.12b YDS 7b French 26 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 26 ZA E5 6b British
Avg: 4 from 1
vote
Routes in (2) Windfall Wall
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(2) Windfall Wall | 0334 T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Across the Water T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Baby Walks T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Bridge of Sighs T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Emmaus T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Feel the Bern S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Fools Pleasure T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Hard Attack T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Joyful Sound S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Left Gnarly Crack T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Livestock Mutilation T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Llama Momma T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Margo's Madness T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Midnight Creeper T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Mr. Reach S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Mrs. Reach (extension to Mr. Reach) S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Right Gnarly Crack T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Sheepgate, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Wave of Mutilation S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Windfall T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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Zealot T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
| Type: | Trad, 90 ft (27 m) |
| GPS: | 44.36774, -121.12995 |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 137 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | Josh Janes on Dec 4, 2024 |
| Admins: | Kevin Piarulli, Nate Ball |
Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Raptor Nesting Closures
Details
ALL SEASONAL CLIMBING CLOSURES FOR CLIMBING AND SLACKLINING WILL BE LIFTED ON FRIDAY, JULY 7TH THIS WEEK.
THANKS, EVERYONE FOR YOUR HELP IN OBSERVING RESTRICTIONS DURING THE NESTING SEASON!
There are many seasonal raptor closures with varying dates and specific boundaries. These generally effect The Monument, Kiss of the Lepers, Picnic Lunch Wall and/or Smith Rock group, and possibly elsewhere. These usually run from February to the beginning of August, but each closure is usually shorter than this, and is dependent on the birds' behavior. Check this site for details: smithrock.com/seasonal-clos…
Description
It's a linkup, I know, but it is one of the very best climbs on the East Side and it deserves a name of its own. This is one of those routes that is truly greater than the sum of its parts (both of which are awesome).
Instead of climbing the easy corner crack shared with Hard Attack to approach all the awesome crux climbing of The Sheepgate, climb Wave of Mutilation (which is fantastic and underrated in its own right). A new crux - and quite possibly the crux of the entire line - transitions left into The Sheepgate's upper corner. Finish with the spectacular headwall.
What to grade this thing? Well, Sheepgate was laughably once called 5.11c but has now settled in at 5.12a. Wave of Mutilation gets 5.12a but might be slightly soft. Then there's the transition move which is not only hard, but pretty much eliminates any rests from this climb resulting in an ultra sustained pitch. Darth Grader suggests 12c. That seems a little generous but then again I onsighted Sheepgate, quickly redpointed Wave, but then fell multiple times trying the linkup. The pump is real!
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