Mountain Project Logo

Routes in (2) Windfall Wall

Across the Water T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Baby Walks T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Bridge of Sighs T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Emmaus T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Feel the Bern S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Fools Pleasure T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Genocide T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hard Attack T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Left Gnarly Crack T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Llama Momma T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Margo's Madness T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Midnight Creeper T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mr. Reach S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Mrs. Reach (extension to Mr. Reach) S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Right Gnarly Crack T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sheepgate, The T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Wave of Mutilation S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Windfall T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Zealot T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Chuck Buzzard 3/84
Page Views: 632 total, 15/month
Shared By: Shelton Hatfield on Jun 26, 2014
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


7 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

A spectacular route, itself worth a trip to the Windfall Wall. Thoughtful protection and movement characterize this route, like many of the gorge 5.11s. Climb a fingers to hand crack to a stance under the roof. Skirt left into a beautiful stem box, using your lower gorge trickery to make the small features useful for protection and upward progress. When the columns end,head up and right pulling wild steep moves up the cracked headwall to reach a two bolt anchor.

Location

Left of "Wave of Mutilation", the farthest left bolted line. "Hard Attack" starts in a grey corner beneath a roof formed by a hanging column.

Protection

Cams to 2.5", extra fingers and micro, 2-3 each of the smallest not unreasonable. Wires. RP's or Ballnuts useful (for TR'ing through the crux on lead)

Standard rack will apparently suffice for your average hard-person

Anchor has two Metolius rap hangers

Photos

CritConrad
Bend, OR
 
CritConrad   Bend, OR
 
on the upper part of the column I placed 3 cam in the green C3/purple Metolius size as well as a red ball nut. A small nut would have worked well there as well so dont let lack of ball nuts deter you. Save some finger sized pieces for the finish. Great route! Aug 13, 2017
I'm glad you did, AJ. This route is awesome and I totally agree with you. Perhaps I can return with less trinkets sometime and give it another whirl. Mar 6, 2017
AJ
 
AJ  
 
Ha! Shelton I thought your description was/is excellent. Just wanted to throw in my 2 cents that no one should pass up this classic due to not having specialized gear. Mar 3, 2017
Rack beta edited to reflect how light-duty I am.

Not gonna lie, the route looked like a midget had aided it by the time I was done leading Mar 2, 2017
AJ
 
AJ  
 
+1 to Jon's comment. A varied, unique and simply brilliant pitch.
Standard rack is great. I led this yesterday without RPs, offsets, ballnuts, etc and didn't wish I had them. Safe and super fun. Mar 1, 2017
Do yourself a favor and do this route and The Sheepgate. They are the same quality as Cry of the Poor, On the Road, or the Pearl that are super classics across the water yet these guys mostly collect dust.
Ball nuts, offset cams, or offset nuts are nice, but this can be safely climbed with a conventional trad rack

FA Chuck Buzzard 3/84 Oct 23, 2016