Type: Sport, 50 ft (15 m)
GPS: 39.74099, -105.34126
FA: Kevin Capps, 2024
Page Views: 89 total · 5/month
Shared By: Kevin Capps on Oct 26, 2024
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

Begin with some intro moves to get to a short-lived crux getting past bolt 1 before arriving at jugs at bolt 2. From here, trend right on good holds to a big move out right to a jug that's a few feet to the right of the bolt line on a small arete/corner. By staying right of the bolt line at the 3rd bolt, you avoid the "dirty rock" that's to the left. Then, make a reachy clip to clip the 4th bolt out left - the bolt is here, because it was the best quality rock for a bolt.

The crux of this route is certainly a "choose your own adventure" type of crux. You can either stay true to the "intended" path and compress the arete for a 5.12 sequence, or avoid it and stay more right for a 5.11 sequence. If you can get past the fact the 5.12 sequence is super duper forced, it's actually very fun, but unfortunately you could awkwardly avoid the crux by traversing right into the dihedral and then back left after the crux.

After pulling the crux section, however you choose to do it, enjoy 5.7 slab climbing to get to the anchor.

This route was an unfinished project for about a year until I was finally able to devote a day to give it a good scrubbing and cleaning. There is still a little "dirty rock" to the left of the middle half, but you naturally avoid it, since the route climbs to the right.

The anchor is currently just two quickdraws into two bolts - I plan to update this to a standard anchor in the future.

Location Suggest change

Currently it is the rightmost bolted route at the Sex Cave.

Protection Suggest change

Bolts.

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